The Preventive Vet

Help... My Dog's Stomach is Swollen! Bloat, Torsion, and GDV in Dogs - Part 2: Be Prepared

Tue, 26 Feb 2013 08:00:00 GMT

In Part 1 of this blog series, I covered Awareness of these three conditions, and highlighted the importance of awareness - for all dog owners. In this installment, I narrow the focus a bit to outline and detail what you need to know about and do to be Prepared should your dog ever be unfortunate enough to suffer from, specifically, Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus (GDV). This will be a very frank, honest, and, at times, seemingly "cold" conversation about this condition. Presenting it in this way though is truly the best way to help you and your dogs, and it's far better for you to know and face this information now, rather than "after the fact" in the ER. So, without further ado, let's jump right in…

How do I know if my dog is suffering from GDV?

This, of course, is the logical place to start a discussion of "Preparedness" - right? After all, if you can't recognize the condition, how will you know when to spring into action! So, if you notice any of the signs listed below, especially if multiple signs are present, bring your dog for IMMEDIATE veterinary evaluation. Time is truly of the essence in cases of GDV/Bloat - so please, do not delay.

Distended or "bloated" abdomen - Note that this may not be so obvious if your dog is very large or "deep chested", as the area of the abdomen where their distended stomach resides may be up behind their ribcage. This sign may also not be so obvious if your dog is very furry. Do not rely on the presence of this sign to determine if your dog may be suffering from GDV/Bloat - the absence of this sign does NOT rule out the condition!
Elbows pointed outward with neck extended - This is your dog's attempt to improve their ability to breathe. This is necessary as the rapidly distending stomach makes it difficult for their lungs to expand. Abducting their elbows like this can help them (albeit minimally) by enlarging the space available for the lungs to expand within their chest cavity.
Pacing and restlessness - Dogs affected by GDV/Bloat will have a difficult time getting comfortable and laying down. This is because they are in acute physiologic distress and they are in the process of dying. This is often one of the most obvious and early signs, so pay attention to it! In the later stages your dog's pacing and restlessness will progress to collapse and decreased responsiveness (listed below).
Unproductive retching - This is where your dog is making repeated attempts to vomit, but nothing (or very little) is coming out. You may see small amounts of water or, more often, large volumes of thick, stringy saliva coming out. This is still considered "unproductive retching" and unproductive retching is (practically) a "telltale sign" of GDV/Bloat!
Excessive salivation - The degree of salivation in dogs suffering from GDV/Bloat is sometimes quite profuse. This salivation may be accompanied by "lip smacking". This is likely a result of the feeling of nausea that affected dogs experience with this condition.
Fast, heavy, or difficult breathing - This isn't just a result of the decreased space within the chest that's available for the lungs to expand, as mentioned above. It's also because of the acid-base and other metabolic abnormalities that are occurring in in your dog's body as a result of their GDV/Bloat. And it's also a result of the pain and distress that they're experiencing because of the condition - think about how you feel after you overindulge at the Thanksgiving meal… then multiply that feeling of discomfort by a factor of 20!
Rapid heart and pulse rate - This can be an early sign due to the pain and distress associated with this condition. However, it's also typical as the condition progresses, due primarily to the compromised blood flow throughout your dog's body (shock). In the later stages of shock the pulse rate will actually drop, and this is a very bad prognostic sign! For this reason, as well as many others, you should know how to check your dog's pulse rate, and know what their normal resting pulse rate is - ask your vet or one of their techs to show you how to do this. It's simple to do, and can help you save your dog's life.
Pale mucus membranes and prolonged capillary refill time (CRT) - The color of the tissues above your dog's teeth can be an indication of the health and function of their circulatory system (heart and blood vessels). I've highlighted "can" because multiple other, non-circulatory, factors can also influence this color. But if you notice that these tissues have lost their typical pink color and are now pale, or if it takes more than 2 seconds (or less than 1 second) for that pink color to return following the application of gentle pressure with your finger, this may indicate a problem - especially if accompanied by any of the other signs in this list. This is another tool that all pet owners should ask their vet (or one of their techs) to show them during a routine visit.
Collapse - This is, as you might imagine, a very obvious sign - so long as someone is around to witness it. Sadly though, collapse is typically a very late sign of GDV and by the time an affected dog collapses, the condition has been going on for quite some time and their prognosis is getting even worse by the second. Many conditions in dogs can result in collapse, what's important to note is that, regardless of the cause, collapse is always a sign of a serious problem that warrants immediate evaluation by a veterinarian.

So, that's a list of some of the signs that can be seen in dogs experiencing GDV/Bloat. But now I'll go you even one better… they say that a picture is worth 1,000 words, right? Then surely a video must be worth 1,000,000 - don't you agree? Below is a truly fantastic (and eye-opening) video from the good folks at Akita Rescue Mid-Atlantic Coast. Be sure to watch it - because as a community we are very lucky that they were able to catch such a clear example of GDV/Bloat in progress! As you'll see, and as they highlight in the voiceover, the poor dog in the video is exhibiting many of the signs outlined above.

One point from the video that I'd like to clarify regards one of the statements they make at the end - that "Bloat" is 95% fatal. It is important to note that this quoted mortality rate (i.e. the percentage of affected dogs that die or are euthanized) is for cases that go undetected and/or untreated. The prognosis is significantly better though for cases that are (1) caught earlier and (2) treated appropriately and promptly. I'll go more into why I keep stressing appropriate treatment a bit later in this blog post - just appreciate that, all other things being equal, the type and quality of the treatment a bloated dog receives can have a significant impact on their chances for survival. Mortality rates for dogs treated promptly and appropriately have been reported as low as 15% - as opposed to the 95% mortality rate for untreated cases. Again, I'll go more into "prompt and appropriate" a bit later in this post - just be aware that dogs with GDV/Bloat can be, and frequently are, saved.

What should I do if my dog bloats?

So now that you know about the condition and what signs you may see in the even that it happens, you might be wondering if there is anything you can do at home? Sadly, the answer truly is… not really and, certainly, not reliably.

If you suspect GDV/Bloat, your dog needs to be brought for immediate veterinary evaluation. Some people talk about giving certain over-the-counter medications to your dog in the earlier stages of GDV/Bloat, but honestly, doing so can make matters worse and the time it takes to do so may just be the difference between your dog living and dying. So, unless you are very familiar with this condition, and your veterinarian has instructed you otherwise, don't bother with any over-the-counter medications at home… just proceed directly for professional veterinary evaluation and treatment.

Even if you're concerned about the costs of appropriately treating a case of GDV/Bloat (more info on that in a minute), your dog should still be brought to the vet if you suspect this condition. If confirmed, and appropriate treatment cannot be authorized - for financial or other reasons - your suffering dog can be humanely euthanized at the vet's office, rather than left to languish and suffer the miserable death of GDV/Bloat. Please, don't trifle with this condition.

What you should be prepared to do on your way to the vet hospital:

If it won't unnecessarily delay your arrival at the hospital, be sure to call your vet, or whatever emergency hospital you are planning to go to, while you are on your way. By making them aware of your impending arrival, you allow them to do some advanced preparation (and possible schedule reorganization) to more promptly be able to provide your dog with the necessary evaluation and care. They can also let you know if they are ill-prepared to deal with your emergency at that time and, hopefully, direct you to another local hospital for more immediate care.

While the second statement above may sound like a strange thing, if your regular vet is backed up with appointments and short-staffed on a busy Saturday they may (and should) direct you to the nearest emergency hospital for care. Similarly, if you are fortunate enough to have multiple veterinary emergency facilities in your town and the one you normally go to is overrun with emergencies and has their only doctor in surgery or dealing with another critical case when you call, then they too may be able to (and should) direct you to one of the other local emergency rooms so that your pet can receive their necessary care in a more timely manner.

You should also start to have a frank and honest discussion in your head, or with the other family members in the car, about your goals for your pet's condition and also, very importantly, what your time, emotional, and financial resources are, and if they will allow you to realize those goals. I know this sounds crass and cold, so I'll apologize now, but I would be misleading you and not helping you if I didn't tell you that this truly is "gut check" time, and that such an exploration and discussion is truly in your dog's best interest - as well as yours. You should start getting a sense of "how far you are willing to go". Sadly, though understandably, for many people, this often translates into how much money they are willing/able to spend. I know this is sad and that it sucks - but it is the reality. GDV/Bloat isn't just medically devastating, it can also be emotionally and financially devastating, as well. So, it truly is best for you, and for your dog, to at least be thinking about these factors before you arrive at the hospital - because things are going to move very fast once you get there and you'll be asked to make major decisions quickly.

Of course, you can take the financial aspect of that decision out of the equation by having your pet covered by a good pet insurance policy. Just make sure that they are covered beforehand, and be sure to do your research to ensure that you're choosing the right company and policy for your pet. For more information on pet insurance and other means of "financial preparedness" see my previous blog post on the subject here.

What you should be prepared for once you arrive at the vet hospital:

Any dog that is presented to the hospital with a known or suspected case of GDV/Bloat will be rushed to the treatment area for immediate evaluation, initial diagnostics, and stabilizing care. This initial level of care is crucially important, as it gives the attending medical team an opportunity to assess your dog's condition, begin lifesaving stabilizing treatments, and start to gather answers to the questions that you will, no doubt, be asking of them. As emotionally-charged and scary a situation as this will be for you, do not do anything that delays your dog's initial evaluation and stabilization. Time truly is of the essence with this emergency, let the medical team get to work on their job of stabilizing and saving your dog.

One thing that often further upsets and confuses owners of dogs suffering from GDV/Bloat is when they learn that they will not be able to accompany their dog back to the treatment area. You should know, in advance, that this is for a number of very good reasons, but primary among them is that the medical team that will be attempting to save your dog's life needs unobstructed access to your dog and they need to keep, what will already be a very busy environment, as quite and calm as possible. Please, do not argue this point with the technician who comes up to triage and receive your dog - doing so will only delay your dog's care, which will, in turn, worsen their chances for survival and further increase your stress level. As hard as focusing will be, you should take this opportunity to complete the paperwork that will be necessary to gather history and continue care. A technician and/or doctor will come out shortly after presentation to provide an initial update and answer questions. And though it will likely feel like an eternity waiting for that initial update to come, it's often only a matter of 15-20 minutes.

Initial assessment and diagnostics will include a focused evaluation of your dog's vital body systems - particularly their cardiovascular (or circulatory) system, as many of these patients present already in a true state of physiologic shock. Once their vital body systems are stabilized, and if you authorize continued care, further diagnostics will be pursued - particularly the taking of X-rays (radiographs), the definitive means of diagnosing a true GDV. (*Note that preliminary diagnostics, including blood pressure measurements, EKG traces, and preliminary blood testing will likely have occurred as part of the initial evaluation and stabilization.) While only one X-ray view of your dog's abdomen is usually necessary to confirm or rule-out GDV, it will typically be recommended that additional X-rays be taken, including of your dog's chest, prior to going to surgery to fix their GDV/Bloat. These additional X-ray views are important for ruling-out the presence of cancerous tumors, aspiration pneumonia, or certain other complicating conditions in your dog prior to undertaking involved and expensive surgery. Depending on the findings of these additional tests, this is often a critical decision-making point for many pet owners. So make sure that they are done, or at least considered, and be sure to thoroughly discuss the findings, and their potential impact, with the attending veterinarian.

If treatment progresses, your dog will need to go to surgery for definitive repair of their dilated and torsed stomach, as well as to evaluate the health of the stomach wall and their spleen. The surgery that will need to be performed is called a gastropexy. During a gastropexy (or "pexy" for short) the stomach is surgically "tacked" to the inner surface of your dog's abdominal body wall, making a permanent adhesion that will prevent a future episode of torsion. You should know that a stomach that has been tacked can still bloat or dilate, it just can't rotate or torse. There are several different types of pexy that can be performed, the attending surgeon will make the choice of type based on multiple factors, including your dog's medical status and stability under anesthesia, as well as the surgeon's skill and comfort level with each of the different types of pexy. In most cases, the choice of pexy type is not important as it relates to your dog's survival or their chances of suffering another episode of GDV/Bloat. (An exception to that statement will be highlighted in the third installment of this blog series - "Be Preventive".)

Costs, complications, and duration of hospital stay:

Regardless of the skill of the surgeon and the rest of the attending medical team, it is important to note that complications can occur. Some of these complications are listed below. They can occur at any time, even once your dog is out of and recovered from surgery, and their onset can be difficult, or even impossible, to predict. It is for this reason that dogs that have suffered from a case of GDV/Bloat need to stay in the hospital and under close professional supervision for a period of time following their surgery. This period is typically 48-72 hours, but it is variable depending on your particular dog's condition and the development of any complications. I've highlighted the point about the supervision to stress that, even if your dog has had successful surgery at your regular, daytime vet's practice, they will need to be transferred to a staffed emergency & ICU hospital for overnight monitoring and care. The decision of whether your dog would then transfer back to your regular vet's office the following day is up to you and your regular vet, with input from the veterinarians at the ER/ICU, of course, too. Regardless though, these patients are critical in the post-op phase and require, amongst other things, injectable pain management and close monitoring of their heart rhythm, respiratory rate and effort, blood pressure, urine output, electrolytes, oxygen saturation, red blood cell count, and several other parameters - this cannot be done effectively, or safely, at home or in a hospital with no skilled and qualified overnight attending staff. Just be aware of this to ensure that your dog is getting the best care possible.

Some potential complications associated with GDV/Bloat (either before, during, or following surgery):

heart rhythm abnormalities (called "cardiac arrhythmias") with the potential for resulting cardiac arrest
blood loss, possibly necessitating blood transfusions
death of sections of the stomach wall, necessitating removal of those portions (called "gastric wall resection")
concurrent torsion of the spleen, possibly leading to tearing of the associated blood vessels and irreversible damage to the spleen itself - this might necessitate surgical removal of the spleen (called a "splenectomy")
inflammation of the lungs resulting from the presence of stomach contents that have wound up there following episodes of vomiting or regurgitation, this type of lung inflammation is called "aspiration pneumonia", and it can prove deadly
delayed return to normal feeding

You might be starting to think that treatment for a case of GDV/Bloat is likely to be expensive, and you'd be correct in that assumption. I bring up costs here because they are a reality, and, as mentioned above, they often figure into people's decisions about the amount and level of care they are able to authorize for their pets. It is fairly typical for the costs associated with treatment for an (uncomplicated) case of GDV/Bloat to reach into the $2,500-5,000 range. The typical price range will of course vary slightly, based on geography, type of hospital their care is received at, your dog's physiologic status at the time of their presentation and during the course of their hospital stay, as well as their prior level of overall health, and a multitude of other factors. For those cases that experience any of the complications listed above, or others, you should expect the associated costs to be more in the $4,000-8,000+ range.

Again, this is where the importance of "financial preparedness" comes into play. I would suggest that, depending on your financial resources and because of costly emergency conditions such as this, it is well be worth it to look into pet insurance for your dog when they're healthy, so that you have it at times like these. This is even more important to consider and explore if you have a dog that would be considered "high risk" for developing this condition. See Part 1 of this blog series for information about Breed Predispositions and additional risk factors, and see my previous blog post regarding Financial Preparedness for more information about pet insurance, CareCredit and other means of paying for emergency pet care.

Well there's a whole lot there, and so that's it for this second installment in my 3-part Bloat, Torsion, and GDV blog series. I hope you've liked it and I hope you've learned loads. But most importantly, though I'm very glad you've read it, I truly hope that you never have need for the information provided here. Please do share it around to help your friends and family, and please stay tuned for the third and final part in this blog series - "Be Preventive". Please also take a second to share your thoughts, feedback, and any personal experiences you've had with this condition in the comments section below.

Again, a special "thank you" goes to my friend and fellow veterinarian, Dr. Ryan Cavanaugh, DVM, DACVS for his editorial review of this post. Dr. Cavanaugh is a highly-respected, board-certified specialist member of the American College of Veterinary Surgeons. He is currently a surgical specialist at VCA's Alameda East Veterinary Hospital in Denver, Colorado. Along with his expertise in routine and advanced surgical procedures, Dr. Cavanaugh has been recognized as one of the leaders in the field of surgical oncology. You can read his full bio here.

(*A note: Even though I highlighted the difference between the terms "Bloat" and "GDV" in the first post in the series, you've likely noticed that I refer to Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus as "GDV/Bloat" in this and subsequent blog posts. I'm doing this because many pet owners (and vets) use the terms interchangeably, and it's important for everybody to realize that when most people google or say "Bloat", they are really looking for and referring to GDV. So I'm using the conjoined term to ensure that everybody can find and learn from this important blog series. I hope it hasn't cause you any confusion.)

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Help... My Dog's Stomach is Swollen! Bloat, Torsion, and GDV in Dogs - Part 1: Be Aware

Wed, 13 Feb 2013 08:00:00 GMT

Stomach bloat, torsion, and their deadly combination - Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus (GDV) - are conditions that all dog owners should be aware of, regardless of your dog's breed(s), age, or lifestyle. Awareness is truly crucial - again, for all dog owners.

Why do I keep stressing the importance of awareness for all dog owners when there are well-documented breed predispositions and known or suspected risk factors? For the very straightforward and irrefutable reason that awareness - as well as preparedness and prevention (the topics of the next two posts in this series) - saves lives. And while that life may not be that of your dog, it may very well be that of your friend's, neighbor's, or relative's dog… and isn't that important, too?

So, with that said… let's get on with this very important topic of canine bloat, torsion, and GDV. This will be a three-part blog series, with this first installment covering Awareness. Part two will be all about Preparedness, and part three will focus on Prevention. I hope you'll find this information both eye-opening and reassuring, and I hope you'll help those you know and love by sharing these posts with them.

Bloat, torsion, and GDV - what's the difference and why is it important?

While these terms are often used interchangeably by many people, knowing the difference between them is important, because they are different. But what's most important is that you recognize that all three conditions warrant veterinary evaluation and that all three can be fatal.

Bloat: The term "bloat" is mostly a generic term indicating an enlargement or swelling of the abdomen - where the abdomen is the enclosed compartment (or "cavity") between the chest (thoracic cavity) and the pelvis (pelvic cavity). Many pet owners will say "My dog looks bloated". Such a bloated appearance can be caused by any number of problems within the abdomen, including (but not limited to):

Bleeding into the abdomen - as might occur with rat poison ingestion, trauma, certain types of cancer, or a multitude of other causes
Fluid (other than blood) accumulation within the abdomen - as is often seen with liver failure, certain cancers, in many cases of heart failure, and in conjunction with a variety of other conditions
Abdominal organ enlargement - the affected organ can be the liver, spleen, uterus, or any of the other abdominal organs… including, the focus of this blog series, the stomach

Of course, even the term "stomach bloat" isn't completely descriptive, as the cause of stomach bloat isn't always the same. You see, the stomach can bloat from a build-up of gas, fluid, ingesta/food, and even a combination of any or all of these three. While this may all seem like irrelevant minutia, it actually is important from a treatment standpoint, as gas bloat, for example, is often treated differently than food bloat.

As you can see from even just the partial list of potential causes for a "bloated appearance" of your dog's abdomen, this can be a very serious sign and one which should prompt immediate evaluation by a veterinarian. Even if the underlying cause or degree of distention wouldn't likely have proven fatal, it's still better to err on the side of caution. You're likely to appreciate the "peace of mind" and you're dog will likely appreciate the analgesia (pain relief) that the veterinarian will administer, if necessary.

Torsion: The term "torsion" basically means twisting or twisted. So here, in relation to stomach torsion, what this means is that the stomach, at either one or both ends, has twisted. In a stomach torsion, this degree of "twist" is less than that which completely obstructs the outflow of gas, liquid, or ingesta from the stomach. (If it completely obstructed such passage, that would be called a "volvulus" - see below.) The two ends of the stomach I referred to are the end nearer the mouth (the "oral end") where the stomach is connected to the esophagus, and the end further away from the mouth (the "aboral end") where the stomach is connected to the beginning part of the intestines. Torsion can compromise the blood flow to and from the affected organ, leading to a multitude of metabolic derangements and other problems.

There are any number of different structures within the body that can become "torsed", it's not just the stomach that can be affected. Animals, including people, can also have torsions of their intestines, spermatic cords, uterus, urinary bladder, and various other structures - including the spleen (which often occurs concurrently in cases of GDV, as I'll soon mention more about).

Again, suspected or known torsions, of the stomach or any other structure, must be evaluated by a veterinarian. They aren't only potentially fatal, they can be extremely painful, too.

Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus (GDV): This is the "big one" - the potentially rapidly-fatal one! The "Perfect Storm" of dog emergencies, if you will. Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus is basically the worst-case scenario combination of the aforementioned bloat and torsion. In cases of GDV the stomach is bloated (often with a combination of gas, fluid, and ingesta) and it is torsed, at both ends, to the point where outflow from the stomach is completely obstructed.

The distention of the stomach gets progressively worse, compromising not only it's own blood flow, but also, very importantly, the overall blood flow available to the heart, and therefore to the rest of the body. This results in a state of hypovolemic shock and myriad other problems, all requiring early and aggressive veterinary treatment, lest it be fatal.

Some of the most important secondary effects resulting from this decrease in blood flow include:

Necrosis (death) of sections of the stomach wall - which can itself lead to rupture and spillage of stomach contents into the abdominal cavity
A significant change in the acid-base balance - both at the level of the stomach and throughout the rest of the body
The triggering, and out-of-control spiraling, of the body's natural inflammatory cascade - causing damage to a multitude of organs (including the heart). This is called Systemic Inflammatory Response Syndrome - or SIRS for short. The prognosis when SIRS sets in is not good.
A triggering, and out-of-control spiraling, of the body's blood clotting system. This is called Disseminated Intravascular Coagulation - or DIC for short. The prognosis once DIC sets in is so dire that the more common name for DIC throughout the veterinary field is "Death Is Coming".

As you have hopefully realized, GDV is truly a very acute and severe emergency situation! Fortunately, with prompt recognition and appropriate care, the outcome of GDV cases is often quite good. However, with delay in recognition and/or the initiation of appropriate care, even if it's just what you might consider a "small delay", these cases are typically fatal. As I'll highlight again in the subsequent posts in this series, GDV is not an emergency where you want to wait until after dinner to take your dog to the vet. And it's certainly not one where you want to wait until the morning to "see your regular vet" or to "see if your dog is still acting abnormal" before taking them to the vet.

Hopefully you're now wondering - "Are my dogs at risk?"

The short answer to that question is "yes". But it is relative, and the "short answers" are often not the best.

While every dog owner should be aware of GDV, it is true that there are certain dogs - either because of their breed, lineage, general disposition, or possession of one or more of the other "predisposing factors" - that are at higher risk of suffering from it. If your dog fits any of these descriptions, be sure to pay even stricter attention to this series of blog posts (and be sure to review them often). But again, what's most important here is to appreciate that any breed and any size of dog can suffer from GDV - so every dog owner should be aware!

Predisposed Breeds: The higher risk breeds tend to have "deeper" or "barrel shaped" chests, and they tend to be the larger and giant breeds. The list below includes some of the dog breeds that are considered to be at increased risk for developing GDV, please note that it is not an exhaustive list. You should also note that mixes containing these breeds should be considered at increased risk for this condition, too. The list provided below is in alphabetical order and has nothing to do with a breed's relative risk.

Basset Hound
Bernese Mountain Dog
Boxer
Doberman Pinscher
German Shepherd
Gordon Setter
Great Dane
Irish Setter
St. Bernard
Standard Poodle
Weimaraner

Risk Factors: Certain personality attributes or husbandry practices may lead to an increased risk, for any dog (regardless of breed), to suffer from GDV. Sadly, given the currently limited nature of many of the studies conducted on GDV, it's difficult to say with complete certainty which factors do and do not increase a dog's risk for developing GDV. Though there's certainly stronger supportive evidence (or "evidence") for some factors than others. However, given the critical and rapid nature of this condition, I'd suggest that it's always best to err on the side of caution and try to avoid even those factors which may increase your dog's risk. (*Note: The American Kennel Club's Canine Health Foundation (AKC CHF) has recently launched The Bloat Initiative, in an effort to improve education and research into this devastating disease - so keep fingers crossed and "watch this space".)

Having a "first degree" relative with a history of GDV (this would be a parent or littermate dog)
Larger size (dogs over 100# are at increased risk)
Advancing age (risk goes up as your dog ages)
A previous episode of GDV (*unless the "pexy" has been performed - see more about this in the subsequent series installments)
Feeding one large meal per day
Nervous, anxious, aggressive, or otherwise fast eating
Feeding from an elevated bowl (this used to be thought to decrease risk, but may actually increase it)
Feeding dry food only
Exercise too close to eating
Drinking large volumes of water following exercise

Well, I know that's a lot to digest (no pun intended - honestly). So, this concludes the "Aware" installment of this 3-part blog series on canine bloat, torsion, and Gastric Dilatation and Volvulus. I hope you are now fully AWARE of these conditions and the important point that any dog can suffer from GDV. There's still lots more to cover and learn, including the signs you may see if your dog is suffering from a life-threatening case of GDV! Those signs, and a whole lot more, are covered in Part 2: "Be Prepared". So please continue following along and read on.

A special "thank you" to my friend and fellow veterinarian, Dr. Ryan Cavanaugh, DVM, DACVS for his editorial review of this post. Dr. Cavanaugh is a highly-respected, board-certified specialist member of the American College of Veterinary Surgeons. He is currently a surgical specialist at VCA's Alameda East Veterinary Hospital in Denver, Colorado. Along with his expertise in routine and advanced surgical procedures, Dr. Cavanaugh has been recognized as one of the leaders in the field of surgical oncology. You can read his full bio here.

A special, heart-felt "thank you" also goes out to Ann Rinkenberger and her family. They kindly allowed me to use the image of their beautiful dog, Casey, at the outset of this post. The Rinkenberger family sadly lost Casey to GDV/Bloat five years ago (almost to the day), on Feb. 13, 2008. Mrs. Rinkenberger was happy to let me use the photo of Casey in the hope that it, along with this series of blog posts, might help someone, even if just one person, be aware, prepared, and preventive when it comes to this devastating condition. I truly believe that it will - and I hope it does so for far more than just one person or family. Please help by spreading the link to this post, and also by reading Mrs. Rinkenberger's personal account of Casey's battle with GDV/Bloat.

I do hope that you've found this post informative and easy to follow. Please share your thoughts, feedback, and any personal experiences you've had with these conditions in the comments section below. And, very importantly, please don't forget to share this information with your dog-owning friends and family, too. Hopefully they'll never need it, but they'll sure thank you for it if they do.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Sit, Stay, Don't Play Dead: The Importance of Training for Dogs

Tue, 12 Feb 2013 08:00:00 GMT

As I loaded up my car early this morning, making multiple trips to get all of the stuff I needed to bring to the office for a day of packaging and shipping book orders, I realized something that I have long taken for granted. The reliability of it has been such that it has faded into the periphery of my daily awareness. And as a result of it, Wendy has, by-and-large, enjoyed a relatively medically-boring life - and we have enjoyed, in this aspect of life, a decreased level of stress, to boot. Wendy, of course, is our dog; and the thing that I had a renewed appreciation of this morning, was her behavior and training.

Now, I am in no way saying that Wendy is perfect - although, of course, she is (aren't they all!). And I am in no way saying that our lives are completely stress-free - both my wife and I are running our own businesses (Like cake? Check out my wife's amazing work here.) and we have two wonderful little girls, currently ages 3 and 1 1/2 years. Kinda sounds familiar, doesn't it? Probably a lot like your life… job, kids, house to maintain, pets, and all the other things that require your daily attention. And that's all before you even think about yourself - you remember, all the things you used to do… sleep, eat, exercise, heck - even bathe (hey, we've all been there). But, I digress.

Like I said, loading the car this morning required multiple trips. Since it was such a beautiful morning, and since the rest of the crew was sound asleep (with the exception of Wendy), I made those several trips without closing either the front door or the yard gate - something I typically don't do, because at least one of my girls will usually follow me out. On my first trip out Wendy followed slowly behind, likely just curious and wondering if she'd be joining me for a day at the office. I saw her come out and asked her to sit and stay, both of which she did quite happily. I put the first load of stuff in the car and then returned to where Wendy was patiently waiting for some snuggles and "good girls". She was still sitting at attention and watching when I reached her.

I asked her to come in and lay down as I picked up the next armful of stuff to pack into the car, which she did happily, right near the pile of things I was loading. She then stayed there for the four additional trips I made - part of the time laying right within scent of my "to-go" breakfast, an egg and cheese sandwich. My car loading experience and departure from the house this morning was low-stress and uneventful. Wendy did not come with me to the office today, as it would have been a very boring day for her here, indeed. But don't worry about her - she gets plenty of "dad time", and my wife is working from home today - so Wendy won't be at a loss for cuddles and attention.

Why exactly, you might ask, am I telling this story? I can assure you that it's not to brag about my dog, or my prowess as a dog owner or trainer. After all, I can't take full credit for the former - my wife and I adopted Wendy when she was already about 1-2 years old. And I'm certainly humble enough to know my short-comings as a dog owner - especially when it comes to training (Wendy barks to her heart's content whenever someone comes to the door - even if that someone is me!). No, I'm recounting this story to highlight some of the benefits that come with having a well-trained dog. And as I hope you can see, these benefits are for both you and your dog(s) - as well as every other member of your family and household, your neighbors, and even your dog's veterinary team and other caregivers.

Gut-check time

How would your dog(s) behave in these situations? Would they bolt out the door at the first sign of daylight (even though it was well before sunrise on this particular morning)? Or would they sit patiently until asked to come outside? Would they willingly sit on the walkway, yard gate open in the distance in front of them? Or would they dart out into the street? Would they lay within easy striking distance of an egg and cheese sandwich, without helping themselves to a second breakfast? Or would they waste no time swallowing that sandwich, aluminum foil and all?

These are important questions to consider, for the health and safety ramifications of the different options are significant. They are the difference, for you, between a low-stress and uneventful morning and a frantic (and expensive) pre-dawn trip to the nearest veterinary emergency hospital. And for your dog, they could wind up being the difference between sickness and health, or even life and death. Think about it.

So yes, while I could have closed the front door and yard gate with each entry and exit of the house and yard, it was truly nice knowing that I didn't have to in this situation. Again, not because Wendy is perfect, but because she's pretty darn close to it - and because we have paid attention to her training and behavior. Wendy has a solid "sit", "stay", and "recall" - we practice them often, as everybody should.

Can an old dog be taught new tricks?

Hopefully now you're thinking of your own dog's training. Perhaps you've just gotten a puppy and are wondering how to train her? Or perhaps your dog(s) are already grown and mature - albeit with an unruly streak? Or maybe your dog is just downright antisocial and an absolute emergency magnet? Obviously the best approach is an early and sustained one, one where you set your dogs up for success from an early age (ideally from their puppyhood). But whatever your situation, it's never too late to train - old dogs can be taught new tricks!

Be consistent, be compassionate, and - very importantly - be patient. Recognize that this is not a race, it's an investment - a relatively small investment of time and money now, that will save you heaps of both - as well as a whole lot of frustration and distress - in the future. Just look at the lists below of some of the benefits of good and effective dog training - I bet there are a few here that you never really even considered before, aren't there?

Some of the benefits for your dogs:

decreased risk of suffering toxicities/poisonings
decreased risk of suffering traumas (such as hit-by-car, dog bite wounds, and others)
easier and less-stressful visits to the vet
happier and more well-adjusted life within the family structure
more likely to be taken on trips - be they around town or to more distant destinations
easier time adjusting when left with pet-sitters, other family members, or at the kennel for those family trips where they just can't go along
significantly decreased chance of being abandoned or relinquished to a shelter

Some of the benefits for you:

fewer unplanned trips to the vet hospital
overall lower costs of ownership (from decreased accidents and other emergencies)
less stressful day-to-day experience
lower risk of being pulled down or tripped while on a walk
easier to go on dog walks with your other dog-owning friends and family members
easier to find a friend or family member to watch your dog(s) when you head out of town
you get to have your dogs around you more and for longer, because they're staying out of the hospital and staying alive longer

Sounds good, right? OKay, let's do this!

Hopefully you're eager to start realizing these, and the other, benefits of a well-trained dog. Here are some resources to get you started. Eventually this blog post will become an entire resource page on the website for pet training and behavior - so check back frequently and feel free to share your favorite pet training and behavior resources in the comments section below. Have fun gang, and just remember… be patient, training is a very worthwhile investment.

Wondering when you should start your new puppy's socialization? Be sure to read this great position statement on "Puppy Socialization" from the experts of The American Veterinary Society for Animal Behavior. There's a narrow window to get the greatest benefit for your puppy's socialization - be sure not to miss it!

Find a professional dog trainer in your area: Search the online database of The Association of Pet Dog Trainers (APDT).

Already have an unruly or aggressive hound? You may well need the services of a board-certified veterinary behaviorist! Find one by searching the online database of The American College of Veterinary Behaviorists.

Want to learn more about animal behavior? Check out the website for The American Veterinary Society for Animal Behavior (AVSAB).

Unsure of which type of trainer or training to work with? Be sure to read the AVSAB position statements on "Dominance Theory" and "The Use of Punishment in Training". These two position statements, along with a guide on "How to Choose a Trainer", are freely available on the "Position Statements & Handouts" page of the AVSAB website.

I'll end this post with this video of the wonderful 2007 TED talk given by Dr. Ian Dunbar - truly one of the leaders and foremost experts in the field of dog behavior and training. Listen to Dr. Dunbar explain how "looking at the world through your dog's eyes" can make training easier, and more intuitive - and how this, in turn, can make a world of difference in improving the relationship you and your dogs have together. I assure you, this will be 15 minutes well-spent. And when you're done watching, you can get more great information and tips from Dr. Dunbar on his website, DogStarDaily.com.

Enjoy the video and have a wonderful day, everybody!

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Is Pet Insurance "Worth It"? A Veterinarian's Perspective.

Thu, 24 Jan 2013 08:00:00 GMT

Is Pet Insurance "Worth It"?

This is a very important question, and one which pet owners are starting to ask and explore more frequently. And from the standpoint of both financial health for the owner and overall health for their pets, this increased interest in pet insurance is indeed a very good thing. I've written briefly on the topic before (see here), but to explore the "pet insurance question" a bit more deeply, I've asked my friend, fellow veterinarian, and widely-respected pet insurance expert, Dr. Doug Kenney to share his insights with you. There's a bit more of a bio for Dr. Kenney at the end of the post - I highly suggest you give it a read and then visit his blog to download his (free) Pet Insurance Toolkit. And now, without further ado, I'm turing this blog post over to Doug (with an occasional comment from me thrown in, just because I sometimes can't help myself)...

The 2 most frequently asked questions about pet insurance by pet owners are:

1) "Is pet insurance worth it?"

2) "Which company/policy is the best?

I'm going to give my opinion as a veterinarian and as someone who's spent several years researching and writing about pet insurance. I'll address the first question in this article, and in a followup article, I'll give you some tips to help you choose the best company and policy for your pet.

I think that people often have a wrong attitude about pet insurance. For example, it's not uncommon for someone to say that they would rather just open up a savings account to pay their veterinary expenses rather than "waste" money on pet insurance premiums. This person doesn't understand the purpose of pet insurance.

People buy insurance of any kind to help them pay for large, unexpected or unplanned expenses for which they would have trouble paying for out-of-pocket.

I'm all for having a so-called "pet health savings account," but not instead of pet insurance. The reason is obvious. What if two months into your savings plan, your pet is seriously sick or injured and requires treatment totaling several thousand dollars. You'd be a little short. That's when a pet insurance policy comes in handy. It's not a matter of either/or but preferably both. If you're saying right now, "That wouldn't happen to me" or "That's not a realistic example," I, as well as Dr. Nicholas, can tell you we've seen it happen plenty of times. (More often than I can say! Remember the adage... "there's a first time for everything"? - TPV)

Another attitude toward pet insurance I hear a lot is "There are too many exclusions e.g. hereditary problems, chronic diseases, etc. so that it's just not worth it." Perhaps you haven't looked into pet insurance lately. There are a dozen companies offering policies in the United States and coverages have vastly improved. Most companies now allow you to customize your policy by selecting from several deductible and copay options to find a premium that fits your budget.

If you've ever had a pet that was seriously injured or ill where you spent hundreds to perhaps thousands of dollars for your pet to be treated, you are likely more receptive to the idea of buying pet insurance. In fact, in hindsight, you've probably thought or actually said, "Pet insurance sure would have come in handy." You may have even purchased pet insurance just because of such an event.

On the other hand, if your pets have always been relatively healthy and you've never been faced with a large, unexpected vet bill, you might be thinking, "Something like that has never happened to me and probably won't, so buying pet insurance would just be a waste of money." Unfortunately, you can't tell the future, and while they say "hindsight is 20/20," it's too late to do you much good.

Perhaps you know some pet owners who scoff at the notion of spending much money at all on their pets. They have the attitude that if anything cost more than say $500, they'll just have the pet euthanized and go out and get a replacement pet. Pet insurance would indeed be a waste of money for these pet owners. (But then... oxygen is also wasted on such people! Just my humble opinion. - TPV)

Surveys have been done asking pet owners how much they would spend to save their ill or injured pet. A large percentage of pet owners responded that they would be willing to spend "any amount" to save their pet. It has been my experience as a veterinarian, however, that when I present the cost of a diagnostic and treatment plan to pet owners, it's no longer a theoretical question on a survey - but reality, and some aren't so sure of the answer anymore.

Not too many years ago, your veterinarian probably handled his own emergencies. Now there are one or more emergency centers in most cities. These hospitals often deal with life-threatening problems that need intensive care or even emergency surgery - usually at hours when your regular veterinarian isn't available. There are veterinarians and technicians who actually specialize in emergency and critical care.

Also, not long ago, if your pet needed to see a specialist, you had to trek to a veterinary school's teaching hospital - sometimes hundreds of miles away. Today most metropolitan areas have one or more specialty hospitals. In fact, it's common to see Specialty/Emergency hospitals all under the same roof. Specialist are more highly trained to solve and treat more difficult cases and have access to and use more advanced technology or procedures e.g. MRI, total hip replacement, etc.

For these reasons, the fees at specialty and emergency hospitals are usually higher than what you would pay at your regular veterinarian's hospital. Specialty and emergency hospitals (when needed) play an important role, along with your regular veterinarian, in providing quality healthcare for your pet and can often be the difference between the successful or unsuccessful treatment of your pet.

In my opinion, specialization in veterinary medicine will only increase in the future. Therefore, odds are that your veterinarian will refer your pet to an emergency or specialty hospital one or more times during his or her lifetime. This will usually involve a large and often unexpected veterinary bill.

So, if your pet were seriously sick or injured and required major surgery and/or an extended hospital stay, would you be willing to spend $5,000 or $10,000 if required, and could you afford to pay for it? If not, then you should at least look into purchasing pet insurance.

Another factor to consider when deciding if you could potentially benefit from buying a pet insurance policy for your pet is the current reimbursement model of how pet insurance works. Right now, you pay your veterinarian, file a claim and receive a reimbursement of all eligible expenses minus the deductible and copay up to the limits of the policy. This differs from what we are accustomed to with our own health insurance. The pet insurance policy is a contract between you and the pet insurance company. Although some pet insurance companies will pay your veterinarian directly in the case of a very large bill, not all (probably not many) veterinarians are willing to accept this type of arrangement. I think there are some things in the works that might make veterinarians more likely to accept direct payment from pet insurance companies and yet avoid the major drawbacks of "managed care" that human health care has evolved into.

Therefore, you must ask, "Do I have sufficient money in the bank or available credit to pay the veterinarian and then wait for reimbursement from the insurance company?" If not, then unfortunately pet insurance may not be an option for you at this time. (This is where a "pet health savings account" can come in handy. Or, even better, using something like CareCredit to cover the costs - often interest-free - until the reimbursement comes in from your insurance company. - TPV)

I believe that more and more pet owners will purchase pet insurance in the future because technology and the costs of delivering quality healthcare to pets have outpaced the ability of many pet owners to pay for it. While pet owners and veterinarians can potentially benefit from third party payment to help pay for the healthcare of pets, I'm convinced the real winners will be the pets.

Many thanks to Dr. Kenney for sharing his insights and opinions with us. As I mentioned in the introduction, Dr. Kenny has a great blog (and podcast) that's all about pet insurance! He, and his website, are a wealth of information for pet owners, and I truly appreciate him sharing his expertise here. Don't forget to download his free Pet Insurance Toolkit - it will prove truly invaluable as you figure out and negotiate all of the pet insurance options available to you.

*Please note: My additional comments (italics and in brackets throughout the post) are my own opinions, and may not necessarily reflect those of Dr. Kenney. So please don't hold him accountable for any of those that you may take offense to, or not agree with.

Do you have insurance for your pets? If so, what are your thoughts on it? How did you choose your company and policy? Have you ever had need to use it? Please share your stories and thoughts in the comments section below.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Third Annual Pet Blogger Challenge

Sat, 12 Jan 2013 01:04:00 GMT

This is my entry into this year's Pet Blogger Challenge. This is my second year participating in the Challenge, so I'm answering the question tract for "Repeat Offenders". Last year's Challenge, the first I participated in, was great fun. It provided not just an excellent opportunity to meet other pet bloggers, but also a great opportunity for introspection and for taking a critical look at my blog and what I am trying to accomplish with it. So, with a whole other year now behind me, here we go again...

Question 1: How long have you been blogging and provide a link to your post from last year's Pet Blogger Challenge so we can refresh our memories.

I started blogging, initially on Tumblr, in June of 2011. I launched my website, www.ThePreventiveVet.com, though in March of that same year. It wasn't until April of the following year that I migrated my blog from Tumblr onto my website, so everything is now housed in one online location.

Here’s the link to my post from the 2012 Pet Blogger Challenge. It’s on my old Tumblr blog.

Question 2: What do you consider the most important goals you set out in last year’s post?

The most important goal of my blog and website is, and always will be, to empower pet owners with the information and advice they need to protect their pet’s health and safety.

Question 3: Have you made progress toward those goals, or have your goals changed over the past year?

I do believe I’ve made progress towards that goal. I’ve gotten a lot more content up on the site, including videos from my regular TV appearances on the More Good Day Oregon show, new forums, and have even embedded the ASPCA toxic/non-toxic plant list on the site.

Also furthering my goal, I am in the process of publishing two tip books on cat and dog health and safety. I completed a successful crowdfunding campaign on Indiegogo this October - here's the link to my campaign page. The series title for these books is Start Off On The Right Paw, and the first title, 101 Essential Tips You Need to Raise a Happy, Healthy, Safe Dog will be available for distribution and sale at the beginning of March this year (you can learn more about the book here). The cat installment in the series will be available later this summer.

Question 4: How often do you post?

I don’t post on a regular schedule. I wish I could, but it’s just too difficult. I try to post every other week, but even that has been tough to keep up with as I’ve been producing these books and other pet safety programs.

Question 5: Has your opinion of blogging on a schedule or as the spirit moves you changed? If you don’t publish on a schedule, why? How do you think your decision affects your audience? How do you know when a topic is “post-worthy?”

I think I tried to publish on a bit more of a schedule last year. But, as more projects develop and as I'm getting out there more in other capacities talking about pet health and safety, even trying to publish on a schedule becomes more difficult.

I don’t know whether or not my lack of a publishing schedule affects my audience – it’s tough to gauge. I suspect that I’d probably get some people to subscribe to my RSS feed if I published on more of a schedule, but I just don’t see it happening right now.

I do send out a weekly pet health and/or safety tip via email each week (every Friday). People can easily sign-up on my website. That has been very popular and helpful for people.

As to what determines whether or not a topic is “post-worthy”, I’d say it’s either the severity of the illness/emergency, the frequency with which the problem occurs, how little known about it is within the general pet-owning public, and a variety of other factors. Having been a vet working in both the ER and general practice setting, I know that there is never a shortage of topics that pet owners need, and want, to be aware of.

Question 6: How much time do you spend writing your blog per week? How much time visiting other blogs? Share your tips for staying on top of it all.

I wish I had some tips to share about “staying on top of it all” – that would mean that I’ve figured out how to stay on top of it all. An individual blog post will take me anywhere from 30 minutes to 4 hours to write – depending on how involved it is and how much other media I incorporate into it (for example, something that all dog owners should see is my blog post with embedded video titled When Gorilla Glue Gets Wet) . I’ve been trying to write more succinctly, while still trying to portray medical conditions and concepts in an easy to understand light.

I try to visit at least one other blog per day, but also try to keep up with it all by monitoring social media pages. I’ve been able to build my Facebook page nicely and am getting a bit more of a following on Twitter, but the one that I am starting to focus more energy on is Google +.

Question 7: How do you measure the success of a post and of your blog in general (comments, shares, traffic)? Do you look strictly at the numbers, or do you have a way of assessing the quality of those interactions?

I do look at the numbers, but mostly just at overall traffic to the website, rather than each individual post/page. As for measuring success, I look at the number of social media shares, comments, and email feedback/comments I get.

One other way that I’ve used to gauge success of a post is with surveys. For example, I have a link to a survey (on SurveyMonkey) included in my series of blog posts on urinary obstruction in cats. If people are so moved, which many people have been, they can click on the link to take the short survey and provide feedback on their experience with feline urinary obstruction. This has worked well, I’ll likely incorporate it into additional posts in the future.

Question 8: If you could ask the pet blogging community for help with one issue you’re having with your blog, what would it be?

I guess, aside from help getting word out about my blog and the information I provide for pet owners, I’d love some tips on how I can naturally increase traffic to my site. My traffic has definitely grown in the past year – about doubled – but it’s still not where I’d like it to be from the standpoint of ensuring that as many pet owners as possible are aware of and learning the stuff I’m putting out there. Any tips on increasing traffic?

One thing I'd love for you all to do is to share your pet medical experience stories with me. I can make this blog better and more personalized the more pet owners I hear from. Everybody with pets has a story from a time their pet needed medical care - be it routine or on an emergency basis. I'm not opening up the blog and my email inbox to complaints about a particular vet's bedside manner or the costs of emergency veterinary care - rather what I'd like to hear from you all are stories of the conditions and emergencies that have affected your pets, what the experience was like for you and your family, and any lessons you may have learned from those experiences. It's all well-and-good for me to write blog posts from my perspective of the cases my colleagues and I see and treat, but these posts can be so much more helpful (I believe) if I can also get more feedback about these experiences from a vast array of pet owners.

Sharing your stories is easy - there are lots of ways for you to do so here on my site. You can post them in my forums, you can email them to me, you can leave them in the comments section in pertinent blog posts, and you can even share them on my social media pages (I'm on Facebook, Twitter, and Google+). It'd be great if you'd also encourage your pet-owning friends and family to do so, too.

And also let me know if there are any particular conditions or emergencies you'd like to see me write about - as you all know, it's always great to be writing about things that you know people want to be reading about ;-)

Question 9: What goals do you have for your blog in 2013?

I have many goals for The Preventive Vet in 2013! If only we were closer to perfecting cloning!

My primary focus this year will be on producing and marketing my Start Off On The Right Paw book series, as this is truly important information to get out there (that's the front cover of the dog version of the book above). I know, and many others have also told me, that this book series will be a great and valuable resource for pet owners. So getting it into the hands of pet owners will be my primary, but by no means only, focus this year.

Since my book marketing and other teaching opportunities will be occupying a larger portion of my time this year, I will likely be incorporating more guest blog posts. To keep with the theme of the blog, the majority of these guest posts will come from other veterinarians. However, there are a ton of technicians and trainers that I also respect and that I know could bring some wonderful and unique perspectives to the blog. So expect to see some other perspectives showing up on the blog this year.

Beyond that, there's also a bunch of stuff I want to do locally to give back to the Portland pet and vet community - I'll keep you all posted about those projects as they develop. One project that I am excited about in the coming year is my involvement on the Board of Directors for a local non-profit that focuses on the importance of training (rewards-based, of course) in decreasing the number of dogs winding up in (or back in) shelters. The group is called The Whole Dog Academy and I'm really looking forward to working with this wonderful group - so you can look forward to more information about the work of The Whole Dog Academy here on the blog, too.

Well, that does it for my entry into this year's Pet Blogger Challenge. I'm looking forward to reading your comments and feedback, and to reading everybody else's entries, too. Be well and have a great year everybody - let's all make 2013 the best one yet! And, as always...

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas (SUMMARY Post and Full List)

Mon, 24 Dec 2012 15:26:00 GMT

Keeping Your Pets Safe at Christmas: Summary Post

Well, the '12 Pet Hazards of Christmas' blog series has come to a close and just in time, too (in case you hadn’t realized - Christmas is tomorrow). Thanks for following along and allowing me to help you keep your pets healthy, safe, and out of the ER. Much of the information and advice I've shared during this blog series will not only keep your pets safe during the holiday season, but will do so throughout the rest of the year, too.

I hope you’ll continue following along with the blog – to make it easy and ensure that you don’t miss a post, you can subscribe to the RSS feed for it here. Also, if you’ve not already done so, please sign up for my free weekly pet safety tip email, stop by and “like” The Preventive Vet on Facebook, and follow along with the Twitter feed. There's a whole lot more to come in 2013 – including the publication of my pet safety tip books!

Until then, here's my top 10 Christmas pet emergency prevention tips and a recap of the '12 Pet Hazards of Christmas'. Happy holidays everybody!

Top 10 pet safety and emergency prevention tips for the holiday season...

By doing what you can to keep your pets away from the tree and its decorations, or at least being cognizant about the decorations you put out and where, you'll prevent digestive upset and obstruction as well as electrocution.
By exercising caution with the types of presents you leave under the tree and how they're wrapped you'll prevent gastrointestinal obstruction and a host of toxicities.
By keeping your pets out of the kitchen while you're preparing for, and cleaning up from the holiday meal, and by securing the trash and compost pail from your pet's reach, you'll prevent a variety of toxicities and digestive problems.
By setting your pets up in a 'safe room' before your guests arrive, and keeping them there throughout the festivities you’ll prevent toxicities, traumas, dietary indiscretions, stress-related illnesses, and a whole slew of other pet emergencies.
By ensuring that your guests hang or otherwise secure their purses, coats, and other bags, you'll not only avoid many toxicities, but you'll likely save their belongings from becoming a 'stunt double' for your stressed cat's litter box, too.
By requesting that your overnight guests keep their bedroom and bathroom door closed at all times you'll prevent a wide variety of dietary indiscretions and toxicities.
By not feeding your pets anything from the holiday table you'll prevent a number of the common causes of vomiting and diarrhea, and many debilitating toxicities as well.
By carefully selecting the flowers and plants that you bring or allow into your home you'll prevent a variety of toxicities that can lead to problems as wide ranging as vomiting and diarrhea to seizures and heart rhythm abnormalities, and the many nasty and expensive possibilities in between.
By not having your pets around the tree with you when you're opening presents you'll prevent digestive obstruction as well as a host of non-obstructive dietary indiscretions, including our 'Day 4 pet hazard'.
By avoiding liquid potpourris and being careful with burning candles you'll not only prevent burns and ulcers in your pet's digestive tract, but house fires as well.

And now here’s a little holiday treat from The PreventiveVet to help you keep your pets safe all year long… now through New Years, I’m giving you 50% off the price of my downloadable Whole Home Pet Proofing Guide! For just $2.48, far less than the average cost for an emergency trip to the vet, you can protect your pets AND spare yourself some heartbreak. Just click the link to see and download my Pet Proofing Guide – enter promo code HOLIDAY50 at checkout to get the 50% discount. Then you need just take the guide around your home and yard, using the room-by-room checklist format, and you'll make your pet’s environment much safer for them.

Have a wonderful and safe holiday and a very happy New Year, everyone! Here's to a fantastic 2013 for all!

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

And here it is... a recap of The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series. Merry Christmas, everyone! Please don't forget to spread the word about The Preventive Vet and Pet Safety :-)

Day 12: Houseguests

Day 11: Cyclamen

Day 10: Liquid Potpourri

Day 9: Ribbons & Bows

Day 8: Chocolate

Day 7: Light strands

Day 6: Ornaments

Day 5: Lilies

Day 4: Batteries

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series (Day 12 - Houseguests)

Sun, 23 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 12: Houseguests

OK, so maybe your annual holiday gathering doesn't look exactly like this. And I know, it seems a bit curmudgeonly to declare “houseguests” as the Day 12 pet hazard in this blog series of Christmas pet safety. After all, it's the holidays, and isn't this time of year about nothing else if not spending it with friends, family, and loved ones?

From the perspective of the health and safety of your pets – which are the reasons you're following this blog series – it truly is important to appreciate all of the dangers (and there are many) that your friends, family members, and other loved ones will most certainly, albeit inadvertently, expose your pets to during this time of great feasts and revelry. So I beg of you, before you label me a Scrooge for singling out those that will grace your home with a visit or overnight stay during the holiday season, please just read on to find out why I’ve done so. I suspect that once you have, you'll see that I truly did save the best for last – and then you can be a little more “aware”, “prepared”, and “preventive” as you welcome your guests into your home!

* Be sure to see the special offer at the end of this blog post – it’s for something that will certainly help you keep your pets safe in and around your home this holiday season, and at all other times of the year, too.

Be aware...

Houseguests never truly show up empty-handed, do they? I mean, even if we're talking about your derelict Uncle who never even brings anyone a card, let alone a gift or something to contribute to the holiday table. Even he brings something into the house... a coat, perhaps? Maybe he's a smoker... cigarettes? Or maybe he's trying to quite smoking... nicotine replacement gum? Or perhaps he's really concerned about his dental hygiene and never wants to get a cavity... xylitol-containing gum? Maybe he's anxious, depressed, or has a heart condition... prescription medications? You get the picture, right? Every single person that steps into your home will almost certainly bring with them at least one thing that poses a health and safety risk to your pets.

Now I am, of course, in no way suggesting that you barricade the door, plug up the chimney, turn out the lights and close up shop for the holidays. That wouldn't make for a very fun holiday season - nor would it be terribly effective either, seeing as how members of your own household (including you) bring many of these same things into the home on a daily basis, too.

What I am suggesting though is that you be aware of these potential dangers, the most frequent sources, and that you take some simple steps to minimize your pet’s risk. Certainly a far more social, and far more effective approach - wouldn't you agree?

Great! So, here are some examples of pet hazards that your visitors will likely expose your pets to this holiday season, and how they’ll do so...

In their coats:

Gums and mints - xylitol, nicotine
Cigarettes
Medications - prescriptions, over-the-counter pain relievers and sleep aids, diet pills, asthma inhalers, many others
Illicit drugs - marijuana toxicity in dogs is very common!

In their purses:

As above for coats, and...
Dental floss - poses a risk of linear foreign body for cats
Hand sanitizers - high alcohol content
Cell phones and other electronics – batteries (see my Day 4 installment in this series to learn about the dangers of batteries for you pets)

With the gifts they bring:

Foods - chocolates, fruitcakes, cheeses and charcuterie (remember the Hickory Farms stands in the mall?)
Alcohol
Toys with batteries (see link above to Day 4 post about batteries)
Wrapping bows and ribbons
Plants and flowers

In their luggage:

Dirty laundry
Toiletry bag - medications, dental floss, etc.
Drugs
And whatever else people might bring along with them for the holidays

And these are just some of the hazards that houseguests will expose your pets to this holiday season! And this is all on top of the stress that houseguests are likely to cause your pets.

Stress can cause a multitude of problems in cats and dogs. This is especially true if your pet is particularly nervous to start with, or they have a preexisting medical condition that makes them less able to deal with stress (namely Addison's Disease). Here are some examples of the problems that stress can give rise to for your pets...

Vomiting and diarrhea
Inappetence - big concern for the development of a condition called Hepatic Lipidosis in obese cats who go off their food
Urinary tract obstruction – particularly in male cats (click here to see my 3-part blog series on feline urinary tract obstruction – all owners of male cats NEED to be aware of this condition)
Bladder inflammation and pain (especially in cats)
Others

Be prepared...

Because of the wide variety of dangers that guests can pose to your pets, it really isn't practical to discuss 'what to do in the event of' for each of them here. (Many of them have been covered individually throughout this series anyway.) However, I don't want to leave you empty handed in the 'how to react' department, so here’s the link to the “Resources” page on my website – Resources. On it you’ll find information about the animal poison control hotlines, how to locate your nearest animal emergency room (even when traveling), and some resources for paying for an unexpected veterinary visit.

Now, of course, you’re far less likely to actually need the links on my Resources page if you heed the advice I provide in the last section of this post. But, just in case, it never hurts to know where to find them.

Be preventive...

Prevent your pet's exposure to the toxins related to houseguests

Either hang all coats and bags on a sturdy coat rack or wall hook or store them securely in a closet or a bedroom with the door closed to prevent your pet's access.
Ensure that any overnight house guests keep the door to their bedroom and bathroom closed at all times to prevent your pet's access to their luggage, laundry, and toiletry bag.
Be careful what you leave under the tree - gifts of food, especially chocolates and fruitcakes, pose significant dangers to both cats and dogs... and wrapping paper and ribbons won't keep them away (and pose dangers of their own).
Be careful which plants and flowers you decorate your home with this holiday season - many of the most common ones are toxic to pets, and poinsettias aren't one of them. (For the ones that are, see the links to the blog posts from this series about the individual holiday plant toxins listed at the end of this post.)
Make sure to dispose of all trash, compost, and recycling safely and securely to prevent your pet's access. Use only sturdy and securely covered trashcans in the house or keep them safely behind securely closed doors.
Keep your pets away from the kitchen as you're preparing the holiday meal, and as you're cleaning up from it too.
Remind all of your house guests not to feed your pets anything from the table or appetizer plates, in fact... your guests shouldn't be feeding your pets anyway (unless they are helping you out by feeding them their regular meals, and hopefully taking them on their walks too).
Keep your pets in their own 'safe room' before, during, and after the holiday get-together. Make sure they have all the things they'll need... food, water, litter box(es), crate, and interactive toys.

Decrease your pet's stress from houseguests

See aforementioned recommendation for a 'safe room' for your pets. Such a set up will help to prevent many of the common holiday pet emergencies!
Make sure your cat's litter boxes are scooped and not located in an area that will be high-traffic during the party. Not making it as easy and low stress as possible for your cats to get to and use their litter boxes is a bad idea, do so at your own risk (and the peril of your walls and carpets). See this great series of articles on the matter by Dr. Lisa Pierson, DVM.
Other than keeping your pets in a safe room, try to keep their daily routine as normal as possible around the holiday season. For example, this is not the time to try changing your pet's diet.
Be particularly careful and vigilant when there are young children around at the holiday festivities. Kids, especially toddlers, can get very excited about pets... the sentiment frequently isn't returned. This is not only how many injuries and stress-related illnesses happen to pets, but it’s also a very common scenario for bites and scratches to happen to kids too.

Prevent traumatic injuries and accidents related to houseguests

See aforementioned recommendation for a 'safe room' for your pets. Such a set up will help to prevent many of the common holiday pet emergencies!
Make sure that guests know to close all exterior doors and fence gates when coming or going from the house. An unintentional escape is a common event preceding the presentation of a pet to the emergency room after having been hit by a car.
Don't let small children walk the family dog. Even if its your own kids and they are used to walking the dog, your dog is likely to be more stressed around the holidays and may therefore not behave the same on the leash - even for your own child. It only takes a second for the dog to pull free from the weak grasp that most children have on the leash, and the end result can be expensive and deadly.

So, do you now understand why the houseguest is the Day 12 Christmas Pet Hazard?

Hopefully now, as you are embracing your friends and family with open arms, you'll also be reminding them to hang their coats and bags, not feed your pets any snacks, and to close all fence gates and doors behind them. Hopefully you will also be careful about what you let them put under the tree (and this includes Santa) and what plants/flowers they bring into the house. Sounds like a lot to do and remind your guests of, doesn't it? That it may be, but it’s not as bad as losing your pet on the holidays to a preventable accident, toxicity, or other emergency - right?

If you want to save yourself some of the trouble of telling all your guests on the day, do the easy thing and share all of the installments of this blog series with them well before.

Wishing you all a safe and wonderful Christmas, or whichever holiday(s) you celebrate. And may you have a wonderful and safe New Years, too.

Here’s a holiday treat to help you keep your pets safe all year long… now through New Years, I’m giving you 50% off the price of my downloadable Whole Home Pet Proofing Guide! Now, for just $2.48, you can protect your pets AND spare yourself some heartbreak. Just click here to see and download my Pet Proofing Guide – just enter promo code HOLIDAY50 at checkout. Then take the guide around your home and yard, using the room-by-room checklist format, and make your pet’s environment far safer for them.

Thanks so much for following along with this series of Christmas pet safety blog posts - there'll be a summary post tomorrow and there are links to all the previous installments listed below, too – just in case you missed anything.

If you liked these posts or have any feedback, please let me know. I love to hear from people and I love to know what people are learning, or what their experiences have been. Leave a note in the comments section here, “like” the Facebook page, follow the Twitter feed, or just send me an email (info@ThePreventiveVet.com).

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 11: Cyclamen

Day 10: Liquid Potpourri

Day 9: Ribbons & Bows

Day 8: Chocolate

Day 7: Light strands

Day 6: Ornaments

Day 5: Lilies

Day 4: Batteries

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas (Day 11 - Cyclamen)

Sat, 22 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

I suspect this is a pet toxicity that many of you were unaware of. In fact, I suspect many of you have never even heard of a cyclamen before – right? However, you've likely seen them around and may have even had them on your holiday table – these plants are common in supermarket floral departments and home & garden centers.

Although not nearly as popular as the poinsettia around the holidays, the cyclamen is often found in homes this time of year and it poses a much greater risk to your pets than the poinsettia does. So read on and be sure to spread the word; together we can remedy this lack of awareness about the dangers of the cyclamen.

Be aware...

The toxins of the cyclamen (terpenoid saponins) can cause a wide range of problems for the pets that ingest them, ranging from excessive salivation and digestive upset to seizures and heart rhythm abnormalities. In small ingestions, most pets will suffer only mild digestive upset. However, in cases of large ingestion, this toxicity can prove fatal.

The greatest concentration of the toxins is contained in the tubers of the plant. These are basically the 'lunch box' or 'food pantry' for the plant, acting as a storage place for energy and nutrients. Fortunately for most pets, the tubers of the cyclamen are located beneath the soil. So for those pets that only nibble on a leaf or two, their clinical signs are likely to only be mild in nature. However, for those mischievous and destructive enough to dig up the roots and tubers, the end result can be far more significant.

Seeing as how they are readily available at supermarkets and garden stores (and rather inexpensive), cyclamen can be a common holiday decoration or hostess/host gift. Now that you’re aware of them and know what they look like, I suspect you'll start noticing them everywhere - especially this time of year.

Be prepared...

Since the signs your pet will exhibit and the effect that the cyclamen will have is dependent on the amount of the plant your pet eats, with the quantity of tubers eaten being most important, the steps you should take in the event of ingestion will vary, too.

If your pet has eaten just a small amount of the plant (such as a nibble on a petal or two) you are likely only to see drooling and possibly a decreased interest in food. In these cases, no specific medical treatment is typically necessary. However, if your pet progress to have additional signs, or if they remain off their food for longer than two meals, or if you are otherwise concerned, then call to animal poison control (see below) or a trip to the veterinarian is certainly warranted.

When the degree of exposure is greater, additional signs of vomiting and diarrhea are more likely to be seen. In these cases the course of action necessary depends both on how severe the vomiting and diarrhea are and how long they last. In cases of short-lived and mild vomiting and diarrhea, it is sometimes possible to 'wait it out' at home (*see disclaimer below) by withholding food and water for 12-24 hours and then very slowly reintroducing first water and then small amounts of a highly-digestible & low-fat diet.

Such a 'bland diet' typically consists of boiled chicken and boiled white rice - no skin, no seasonings, and no bones. You can often substitute the boiled chicken for boiled turkey, boiled lean ground beef, or cottage cheese if desired. If your pet refuses to eat, or if the vomiting and diarrhea continues, they must be brought for veterinary evaluation and treatment to correct/prevent dehydration and electrolyte abnormalities that can prolong their condition and worsen their prognosis. Earlier veterinary intervention will typically shorten the course of their digestive upset, and it will often decrease the overall costs for you as well.

In cases of larger ingestion, when vomiting and diarrhea are likely to be of greater severity and your pet is more likely to suffer the neurologic and/or cardiac effects of the toxin, immediate veterinary evaluation and care should be obtained. Especially when neurologic or cardiac effects are present – weakness, collapse, shortness of breath, ataxia ('drunk walking'), or seizures – their chances for survival and full recovery are improved by rapid and appropriate treatment. There is no safe or effective at-home remedy for the neurologic or cardiac effects of cyclamen toxicity, so in these cases your pet must be brought immediately to the veterinarian for care.

* Disclaimer: Because each pet's situation may be different, because of any pre-existing medical conditions or certain medications or supplements they may be on, the safest thing to do in any event of cyclamen ingestion is to call the fine folks at one of the animal-specific poison control centers. Both the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center and the Pet Poison Helpline are open 24 hours a day, 365 days a year (even on holidays). Though there is a negligible fee for using their service, the peace of mind and expert individualized advice you will receive for your pet can be truly priceless - a quick call to either of these two fabulous resources may save you and your pet a trip to the ER, it’ll definitely put your mind at ease, and it may even save your pet's life, too.

Be preventive...

Keep these plants well out of your pet's reach (and mouth). If you have them in your home, be sure they are in places where your pets truly cannot get to them. Since its primarily the tubers that are problematic to pets, and those tubers are under the soil, hanging these plants from the ceiling or keeping them up on elevated shelves is often safe enough (unless your cat knocks them down).
For greater peace of mind, the safest thing you can do is to decorate with pet-safe alternatives, see this searchable poisonous plant list from the ASPCA.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 10: Liquid Potpourri

Day 9: Ribbons & Bows

Day 8: Chocolate

Day 7: Light strands

Day 6: Ornaments

Day 5: Lilies

Day 4: Batteries

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas (Day 10 - Liquid Potpourri)

Fri, 21 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 10: Liquid Potpourri

Some of the nicest things about the holidays this time of year are the smells, don't you agree? Whether it's the smell of a fresh cut Christmas tree, cookies baking in the oven, or a crackling wood fire, don’t you just feel that Christmas is associated with an abundance of wonderful smells? Or perhaps it’s just because I'm married to a wonderful and truly talented pastry chef and live in the beautiful Pacific Northwest, I don't know.

Regardless though, today's post is about a substance that can create or help to mimic some of those wonderful holiday smells... liquid potpourri. And while these oily liquids can fill a house with a sensory overload of wonderful aromas without all the 'hassle' of baking cookies, lighting a fire, or cutting down a Christmas tree, they also pose a very real, and potentially very significant, hazard to your pets - especially your cats. So read on and enjoy Day 10 of 'The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas', there’s only 2 more days left in the series...

Be aware...

Liquid potpourris typically contain two substances that can be toxic to your pets - essential oils and cationic detergents. Whether or not they're specifically listed on the label, they're almost always present, albeit in varying concentrations.

While the essential oil component of the liquid potpourris can cause problems for your pets (depending on the type and concentration of the essential oil), typically it’s the cationic detergents that cause the bigger problems. (Click here for an in-depth description of the different types of detergents, if interested.)

The cationic detergents present in liquid potpourri can cause severe ulceration and chemical burns to the surfaces within your pet's mouth and along their digestive tract. They can cause similar problems if they come into contact with their skin or their eyes, too.

As you might imagine, burns within your pet’s mouth, or anywhere along their digestive tract, can be extremely painful. This pain often causes affected pets to go off their food, and this, in turn, can lead to a whole other set of problems. Of particular concern, especially if your cat is overweight or obese, is the development of Hepatic Lipidosis.

If the concentration of the detergents within the potpourri is high enough, and the burns sustained severe enough, your pet could wind up with a perforated ulcer, or hole, in their esophagus. This carries a very poor prognosis for survival, sometimes even in spite of appropriate and timely treatment. Oral exposure to liquid potpourri is no small matter for pets!

Similarly, if liquid potpourri comes into contact with your pet’s eyes, it can lead to a loss of vision. Whereas the burns they can suffer if they get these cationic detergents on their skin can require multiple surgeries for skin grafting, and they can lead to serious infections, too.

Hopefully you are now thoroughly aware of the potential dangers that liquid potpourri poses to your pets. As you can see, these are no trivial problems. Now lets talk about what to do 'in the event of' and then we’ll move onto my favorite topic – prevention.

Be prepared...

In cases of known or suspected exposure, the peace of mind and advice you will receive from a phone call to the toxicology experts at either The ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center or the Pet Poison Helpline is always worth the (truly negligible) time and money that either will set you back. As with many types of toxicities, prompt action and correct advice is of the utmost importance in improving your pet's chances for a good outcome – as well as your chances for the lowest veterinary bill possible. Please don’t take a “wait-and-see” approach!

*Disclaimer: It’s important to note that the general treatment suggestions provided below are only applicable if your pet is currently medically stable and acting normally. You must use your discretion. If your pet is collapsed, mentally inappropriate, having seizures, or otherwise already medically compromised you should NOT attempt any at-home first aid measures. In these cases it is vitally important that you bring your pet for IMMEDIATE veterinary evaluation and care.

If you notice an oily spot on your pet or realize the distinct smell of potpourri on them, they should be immediately bathed (tepid water and a good grease-cutting soap, such as Dawn dish soap) to prevent further exposure and irritation of their skin or further ingestion from self-grooming. Pay careful attention to and thoroughly bathe all of their paws as well, as cats often will have walked through these spills and are likely to have a copious amount of the liquid on their paws and between their toes. Be sure to rinse and dry them well after the bath to prevent them from getting a chill.

If you suspect that your pet has ingested any of the liquid DO NOT try to make them vomit - this is one of the toxicities where vomiting induction can cause more harm than good (hence the reason why you should never induce vomiting in your pets without first speaking with a veterinarian). Rather, in these cases it is best to try to get your pet to drink some water or milk to dilute and buffer the ingested detergents. If they won't readily drink water or milk, feeding them some ice cream, cottage cheese, or yogurt can also do the trick.

If your pet has gotten any of the liquid potpourri solution splashed in their eye, its important to flush and dilute out the product as quickly as possible. With both cats and dogs, the easiest way to accomplish this is to use a bottle of sterile saline eye. Carefully flush the affected eye(s) for 15-20 minutes or as long as your pet will tolerate. This is not the end of treatment though, this is just first-aid.

Following this flushing, your pet still needs to be brought for immediate veterinary evaluation and further treatment. Only a veterinarian can evaluate your pet's eyes for evidence of corneal ulceration and damage that would warrant specific medical therapy. Under NO circumstances should you apply any topical medications to your pet's eyes following exposure to liquid potpourri until a veterinarian has evaluated their eyes.

Again, in cases of liquid potpourri exposure, when in doubt, contact one of the animal-specific poison control centers (hotlinked above, or see the resources page of my website here), a local veterinary emergency hospital, or your regular veterinarian for advice. Do not delay.

Be preventive...

Use liquid potpourri and essential oils only with extreme care in any households where there are cats, or better still... don't use them at all.
Safely and securely store containers of these products well out of reach of your pets and be sure to wipe clean the sides of the containers after each use.
Promptly and completely clean up any spills of liquid potpourri and essential oil preparations. Blot them up with dry paper towels and then clean the area well with a good grease cutting dish detergent, such as Dawn.
Don't leave dishes of liquid potpourri out on coffee tables and other surfaces that cats can easily reach. As you should now be aware, these fragrant liquids pose a very serious hazard, particularly to your cats, whether or not they are being actively warmed (the potpourri that is, not the cats).
The liquid potpourri isn't the only hazard in an oil burner - the tiny candle at the base can trigger a house fire if knocked over by a curious or overly affectionate cat. Be sure all candles, big or small, are extinguished before leaving the house or going to bed.
If you want a good smell in the house but are now (hopefully) deterred from using liquid potpourri in households with cats, try a plug in diffuser or try one of these recipes for mulled wine or mulled cider. A pot of either of these libations simmering on the stove or in a slow cooker will make any household smell better - both because of the fragrant ingredients and because after a few glasses of either – if you decide to add some alcohol to the cider, that is – no smell will bother you! Just be careful to keep your cats off the counter and stovetop when any burners are on, and keep them away from the alcohol, too!

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 9: Ribbons & Bows

Day 8: Chocolate

Day 7: Light strands

Day 6: Ornaments

Day 5: Lilies

Day 4: Batteries

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series (Day 9 - Ribbons and Bows)

Thu, 20 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 9: Ribbons and Bows

You’d be forgiven for thinking that curly ribbon and package bows are good toys for your cats – after all, pictures and videos of playful cats rolling around with such objects can be found everywhere online, on television, and in print ads. But we in the veterinary profession also want pet owners to be aware that another place we commonly see kittens and cats playing with Christmas ribbons – or at least the debilitating and expensive results of such activities – is in the veterinary clinics and ERs all across the country.

This article will tell you what you need to know to recognize, react, and prevent this common holiday pet hazard. So dig in, read on, and don’t forget to share this information with your friends and family…

Be aware...

Just like tinsel, the ribbons and bows that adorn wrapped gifts and lay around with your wrapping supplies are typically quite enticing for cats. Something about these wrapping accessories just seems to trigger a cat's inner hunter. Unfortunately, a common result of this 'hunt' is an intestinal obstruction that can sicken or kill your cat.

The long, strand-like nature of ribbons and bows makes them very common “linear foreign bodies” in cats around this time of the year. Linear foreign bodies cause a particular type of digestive tract blockage in pets that are curious, mischievous, and unfortunate enough to eat them.

Treatment for linear foreign body obstruction should always involve surgery. Not just to remove of the offending material, but to evaluate the gut for damage and tissue that is beyond repair. The typical costs for such care will depend on your geographical location, your pet's size, the degree of their debilitation prior to surgery, and type of hospital and qualifications of the doctor and nursing staff where the procedure and aftercare are done. Generally speaking though, its safe to say that diagnostics, stabilization, surgery, and aftercare/hospitalization for cases of linear foreign body obstruction will typically set you back between $1500-3,000+.

If their bowel has perforated and inflammatory fluid and bacteria have spilled into your pet's abdominal cavity, the costs associated with care of their linear foreign body obstruction and septic peritonitis will likely be more in the $4,000-6,000+ range. In these cases, the risks associated with anesthesia/surgery, though necessary, are greater too.

Be prepared...

Pets with an obstructive foreign body in their digestive tract, linear or otherwise, may exhibit any combination of the following signs:

Refusal of food
Decreased energy
Hiding
Vomiting
Diarrhea or a lack of bowel movements
Abdominal pain (often indicated by your pet’s growling, vocalizing, or attempts to bite when their abdomen is touched or you attempt to pick them up).

It’s important to recognize that though these signs don’t automatically indicate the presence of a digestive obstruction, any pet exhibiting any of these signs, in any combination, should be brought for veterinary evaluation. Now whether or not their signs are indicative of the need for a holiday or middle of the night emergency room visit is very much dependent on how long the signs have been present, how severe they are, and a variety of other factors. However, it truly is always better to be safe than sorry and therefore, you should have them evaluated sooner rather than later. It often results in a better outcome and typically a lower overall bill, too. When in doubt, call your veterinarian or local animal ER.

In some cases of linear foreign body obstruction you may either notice the ribbon or string protruding from your pet's rectum, or you may notice them incessantly pawing at their mouth. Alternatively, you may notice pieces of linear material within their stools or vomit, or you may notice that ribbon or string is missing from around the house. When the clinical signs mentioned in the paragraph above are combined with the visualizations and realizations mentioned here, the likelihood of a linear foreign body obstruction is high and emergency veterinary evaluation is clearly warranted.

It’s vitally important that you do not pull on any string or ribbon that is protruding from your pet's rectum. Doing so can cause further damage to your pet's digestive tract, including perforation of their bowel, with the result of bacteria and intestinal contents leaking into the abdominal cavity causing a painful and life-threatening inflammation and infection within the abdominal cavity called septic peritonitis.

If you see linear material protruding from your pet's rectum the best thing you can do is to get them immediately to a veterinarian. You may be able to cut the protruding end of the material with scissors, but be very careful not to cut your pet's anus or tail, and be sure to leave a few inches still protruding to facilitate diagnosis by your veterinarian.

Be preventive...

Don't leave your wrapping supplies out where your pets can get to them. Either put all such supplies away when you are done using them, or wrap all your presents in a room or area that you can close off to prevent your pet's access.
Don't put gifts with ribbons and/or bows out under the tree until Christmas morning.
Either don't allow your pets around the tree while you're unwrapping presents, or be very diligent to securely discard any ribbons and bows as soon as they come off the present they're adorning.
Once all of the gift opening is complete, take the trash bag containing the ribbons and bows to your outdoor trashcan for the most secure disposal.
Don't allow your pets to play with the ribbons and bows, and advise your guests not to engage your pets in such play either.
Skipping the ribbons and bows for your holiday and gift decorating all together is by far the safest bet.

We're almost through The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas blog series... just 3 more days to go! They'll be good ones, too – and a bit more obscure, as well. Thanks for following along. I hope you're sharing what you're learning with your friends, family, and loved ones. Have a safe, wonderful, and joyous holiday.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 8: Chocolate

Day 7: Light strands

Day 6: Ornaments

Day 5: Lilies

Day 4: Batteries

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas (Day 8 - Chocolate)

Wed, 19 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 8: Chocolate

Hopefully you’re already aware that chocolate is bad for dogs, but do you know why? Do you know which types of chocolate are the worst? Do you know what signs would give you cause for concern if your dog gets into chocolate – or if you think they might have?

Chocolate is too common a gift this time of year, and it’s present in too many holiday-baked goods to not review it here. There’s lots that you likely aren’t yet aware of, and your pets will benefit from you taking a few minutes to learn it here…

Be aware...

The primary concern with chocolate toxicity in pets arises from a class of compounds called the methylxanthines. If you've ever pulled an 'all-nighter' in college or if you have a hard time waking up in the morning, you're likely already well acquainted with one member of the methylxanthine class - caffeine. The methylxanthine that we worry about with chocolate toxicity is called theobromine.

The methylxanthines can have a wide range of effects in your pet's body. The ones of primary importance though in cases of chocolate toxicity are hyperstimulation of both the central nervous system (brain) and the heart. This excessive stimulation can lead to significant, and potentially fatal, problems in pets that ingest chocolate. These problems can include…

General hyperexcitability and “anxiousness”
Seizures
Rapid heart rate (tachycardia)
Abnormal heart rhythms
Cardiac arrest

The amount of methylxanthines in chocolate varies significantly with the type, or cocoa content, of the chocolate. The darker the chocolate, the higher the cocoa content, and the greater the methylxanthine concentration and, therefore, the greater the risk it poses to your pets.

The amount of chocolate your pet eats, and their size/weight also have a bearing on the likelihood they will suffer the dangerous effects of chocolate toxicity should they get their paws on some. Check out this cool interactive chart from National Geographic Magazine, it very nicely illustrates the rough estimates of the clinical signs you can expect in cases of chocolate ingestion based on your pet's weight and the type and amount of chocolate they eat.

It’s important to recognize too that each pet can have other factors that influence their risk of having problems resulting from chocolate ingestion. For example, if your pet has a preexisting heart and/or central nervous system/seizure disorder, they’ll be even more sensitive to the toxic effects of the methylxanthines, and therefore clinical signs will be seen at even lower quantities of ingestion.

Be prepared...

In the event that your pet gets into chocolate, the best thing you can do is contact your veterinarian or one of the animal-specific poison control centers (click here for contact information) for specific advice.

If your pet is already showing signs of toxicity - such as hyperexcitability, restlessness, seizures, panting, vomiting, or diarrhea - they need to be seen immediately by a veterinarian. Don’t forget, chocolate toxicity can prove fatal, so don't delay or take a 'wait and see' approach.

In cases where cardiovascular and/or neurologic signs are present or expected to develop, these pets will need to be hospitalized for treatment and monitoring. Amongst other possible interventions, their treatment is likely to include the administration of activated charcoal, intravenous fluid administration, continuous monitoring of their heart rate and rhythm (ECG). Additional specific treatments will be necessary if seizures of heart arrhythmias or seizures are present or develop.

A secondary problem that often arises in cases of chocolate ingestion is that of ongoing diarrhea and/or vomiting resulting from the pancreatic inflammation (pancreatitis) caused by the (typically) high fat content of chocolate. The signs of pancreatitis can take a few days to manifest, and can themself warrant a prolonged hospital stay for your little 'furbaby'.

Hopefully you now appreciate the importance of being proactive in preventing your pet's access to all things chocolate – be they wrapped presents under the tree or as baking ingredients on the counter in the kitchen.

Be preventive...

Don't leave chocolate (or chocolate-containing foods) under the tree. Wrapped or not, your pets are sure to sniff them out and help themselves. Advise your friends, family, and other guests of this too, and though he should know better, be sure to mention it to Santa as well (perhaps write it on the note that you're planning to leave for him next to the milk and cookies.
Be careful what 'stuffers' you put in the stockings, and be sure to hang them well out of reach of the pets.
Don't leave desserts out on low-lying tables or near the edge of countertops. Be sure your guests and children are similarly cautious.
Be careful when doing the holiday baking... from chocolate chips (especially if dark) and chocolate bars to cocoa powder and blocks of chocolate, holiday baking often includes chocolate in quantities that can easily land your pet in the ER.
Make sure your overnight houseguests keep their suitcases and other bags off the floor and that they keep the door to their room (and bathroom) securely closed as well. After all, you never really know what overnight guests bring in their suitcase, do you?

Enjoy the holiday season and all the chocolate that comes your way. Just be sure to keep it out of your pet's mouth though if you want to avoid an expensive and time-consuming trip to the animal emergency room.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 7: Light strands

Day 6: Ornaments

Day 5: Lilies

Day 4: Batteries

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas (Day 7 - Light Strands and Electrical Cords)

Tue, 18 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 7: Light Strands and Electrical Cords

Though strands of Christmas lights can really add a beautiful holiday glow to your tree or house decorations, its important to also appreciate that they can cause a curious pet quite a shock and some pretty significant resulting health problems, too. And if chewed on, these tree adornments can even lead to a house fire. For these reasons, light strands and other electric cords are the Day 7 pet hazard for The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas blog series.

Be aware...

Pets that chew on electric cords can sustain burns on their tongues and elsewhere in their mouth. These pets may also develop a buildup of fluid within their lungs, as a result of the electrical shock. This fluid buildup within the lungs that results from a cause other than heart failure is known as non-cardiogenic pulmonary edema, it can lead to breathing problems, and it can be fatal, too.

The oral cavity burns these pets suffer from can result in significant pain and can cause them to go off their food. This scorched tissue is also at risk of becoming infected. If your pet chews through an electric cord and their burns are bad enough that they won't take food, they will need to be hospitalized for care and they may need to have a temporary feeding tube placed. These tubes can be lifesaving interventions, but they can be fairly costly too - with hospitalization for tube placement and the necessary nursing care often costing in the range of $1,000-3,000 (depending on the severity of their injuries and how well and quickly they respond to treatment).

Not only can pets chewing on electric cords be dangerous for them, but if the chewing exposes the wire and leads to a short, it can also cause a tree or house fire that puts the rest of the family in danger as well. Read this story here about the frequency and danger of tree fires from any cause.

Be prepared...

If your pet is actively getting a shock from chewing on a strand of Christmas lights or any other electrical cord you can try to safely unplug the cord from the outlet by using a non-conducting object (such as a wooden broomstick) or by wearing thick, non-conducting gloves. It is of course vitally important, for many reasons (all of which should be fairly obvious), that you exercise extreme caution when trying to unplug a cord that is actively shorting. Once the setting is secured and your pet is safely extricated from the electric cord, they must be brought immediately for veterinary evaluation and treatment.

Signs that your pet may have suffered an electric shock can include...

Acting abnormally
Hiding
Excessive drooling
Refusal to eat or drink
Random and abnormal urination or defecation near an electric cord
Evidence of a chewed electric cord

Even if you don't actively see your pet getting shocked, if you suspect it for any reason, or you notice any of the signs listed above, your pet should be brought for immediately to the veterinarian for evaluation and care. Though it can take a few days for the signs of non-cardiogenic pulmonary edema to fully manifest, or for evidence of infected burns to be fully appreciated, immediate veterinary evaluation and treatment is still very important.

Be preventive...

Recognize that puppies and kittens are the most likely, though by no means only, pets to chew on electric cords. As such, use extra care with puppies and kittens in the house and be particularly careful not to have any electric cords near a puppy's crate.
Be sure to unplug all strands of lights when you leave the house or before you go to bed at night. If you want the lights to be on when you wake up in the morning, plug them into a reliable timer.
For the long 'tail' of the cord on the light strand (the portion without lights), consider using a protective covering such as The Chewsafe cord protector or the CritterCord to prevent the teeth of curious or mischievous pets from sinking in.
To prevent fires, always check your cords for evidence of chew damage before plugging them in.
If you have a pet that you're certain will attack the strands of lights, either don't use such lights in your home, wrap only the top portion of your tree, or consider using rope type lighting instead. The rope lighting can more easily be rubbed with a deterrent spray, such as Bitter Apple, to help decrease the chances that your pets will chew on it. (Do not spray the deterrent product directly onto the lighting, rather spray it on a cloth and then wipe the strand with the dampened cloth.)
Opt for the lower voltage LED lights (rather than the traditional higher voltage incandescent type) to decrease the risk associated with a nibble on the cord. These bulbs are also often made of plastic rather than glass, and are therefore less likely to break and cause a laceration or cut-type injury.

Here's to a wonderful, joyous, and safe holiday season for you, your family, and your pets. And to your success in preventing your life from imitating the art that is National Lampoon's Christmas Vacation...

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 6: Ornaments

Day 5: Lilies

Day 4: Batteries

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas (Day 6 - Ornaments and Other Tree Decorations)

Mon, 17 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 6: Ornaments & Other Tree Decorations

From cuts on paws from those that break to gastrointestinal obstruction from those that get ingested, ornaments and other Christmas tree decorations pose a wide array of hazards to your pets. It’s this scope of problems and the prevalence of such decorations in homes this time of year that make Christmas tree ornaments and other decorations the 'poster children' for Day 6 of The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas.

Be aware...

Cats are probably most at risk of sustaining injuries from these festive decorations, what with their propensity to bat down and play with things that dangle in front of them. This isn't to say that dogs aren't at risk of injury or illness from that which adorns your Christmas tree. After all, once a dog's tail gets wagging, nothing in its path is safe, and dogs being dogs, they're also probably the ones more likely to try to eat an ornament once its been knocked off a branch.

But honestly, how many cats do you know that can truly resist the opportunity to 'hunt' a dangling Christmas bell or shiny ball? There aren’t many, that’s for sure!

Ingested ornaments can lead to irritation, bleeding, obstruction, and puncture of your pet's digestive tract. Some will put your pet off their food for several days, some may land your pet in the hospital for treatment of the irritation and lacerations they can cause, and others may even necessitate surgery for their removal from your pet’s digestive tract. When you really think about it, aside from perhaps some good chuckles and some entertaining video footage that you can post on YouTube, nothing very good can come from your pets playing with the Christmas tree decorations – and plenty of bad (and expensive) can.

Two other things about tree decorations that warrant specific mention include ornament hangers and popcorn strands (tinsel of course has already been covered, see Day 1 of this blog series).

Ornament hangers: These little wire bits can easily become lodged within, or puncture through your pet's digestive tract. Fortunately they often show up readily on x-rays, sadly though they also often require expensive surgery or endoscopy for removal. Punctures of your pet's digestive tract can lead to a debilitating condition called septic peritonitis, this is a fatal condition without surgery timely and appropriate.
Popcorn strands: It’s not the popcorn here that causes a problem for your pet, although that is what typically attracts them to play with these fun-to-make and festive decorations in the first place. Rather its the string, often fishing line, which keeps the popcorn pieces together that can wreak havoc with your pet's digestive system and land them on the surgery table. As was discussed in the post on the dangers of tinsel (Day 1, see link above or at the end of this post), popcorn strands can lead to a linear foreign body obstruction in pets mischievous or curious enough to eat them.

Be prepared...

If your pet has ingested an ornament or an ornament hanger, it’s best to take them for immediate veterinary evaluation. The two main reasons being that…

If the ornament has broken, the veterinarian can fully evaluate your pet's mouth for signs of trauma or embedded pieces
If the ornament needs to come out surgically or endoscopically, sooner is always better than later when it comes to mitigating the damage that the ingested ornament can do, as well as the costs associated with removal and aftercare.

If your pet has sustained a cut on their paw from a broken ornament, typically the best first step you can take is to evaluate all of their paws carefully for any embedded pieces of the broken ornament and then apply direct pressure, with a towel or rag to stop any bleeding. After the bleeding has stopped, clean the area with warm water and an antiseptic solution, such as povidone iodine or chlorhexidine (do NOT use hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol).

You must then monitor the injury very carefully for signs of infection or residual embedded foreign material. If there is any persistent swelling, discharge, or lameness, your pet must be evaluated by a veterinarian for further treatment. It’s also important that you protect the cut paw with a sock or bootie (see the range of booties made by Ruff Wear and the Healers dressings made by Bowserwear) to keep it clean whenever they go outside and that you also prevent your pet from licking at it (E-collars often work very well for this purpose).

Another important thing to do if your cat has sustained such a cut on one of their paws is to change their litter type until the cut is healed - use shredded newspaper or paper towel rather than a clumping clay type of litter, the latter can become impacted in the cut preventing healing or even encouraging infection.

*Three very important notes regarding the use of socks, booties, or bandages to protect a pet's injured paw...

It is very important that the covering is not too tight. If a bandage is applied too tightly it can interfere with the flow of blood into and out of the paw and lead to tissue damage, pain, infection, and loss of the paw. For this reason, it is always advisable to have a veterinarian apply bandages to your pet's paw or limb (or at least have them show you how to do it).
If you are using a protective cover that is not breathable, such as a recycled fluid bag or other plastic bag, it is vitally important that it not be left on constantly. Such coverings should always be removed once your pet is back in the house where ground moisture is no longer a problem. The reason for this is that such types of bandage covers trap moisture in and can therefore lead to bandage problems or, even worse, maceration of the injured tissue.
Don't let your pet chew or ingest the covering, this can cause a relatively simple case of a cut pad to turn into a more complicated and expensive case of gastrointestinal foreign body surgery.

If your pet eats a popcorn strand or if you see the string protruding from their rectum, they need to be seen by a veterinarian. As mentioned in the previous tinsel post, when owners pull on protruding strings in an attempt to remove them from their pet's system, they often create more damage that worsens their pet's prognosis and increases the costs associated with surgery and aftercare, as well.

Be preventive...

Some simple steps can help you protect your pets from the dangers that Christmas tree decorations can pose to them.

Don't let your climb in or play in the tree. (If your cat has a habit of doing so, it’s also wise to secure your tree to the wall with a sturdy rope or wire.)
Either elevate your tree or don't hang your ornaments on the lower branches. Certainly don't hang any jingly bells within easy reach of curious paws.
Pick up fallen ornaments before your pets can play with or ingest them, and be sure to clean up the pieces of a broken ornament
If you've got pets in the house, don't use popcorn strands.
Don't leave ornament hooks lying around. Don't forget to exercise caution especially when decorating and un-decorating the tree.
Don't let your pets have unsupervised access to the tree or ornaments.

There's no doubt that ornaments add a wonderfully festive and beautiful touch to holiday decorating, but its also important for you to appreciate that they can also cause injury and illness to your pets. These injuries and illnesses can land your pet in the hospital for the holidays and quickly deplete (what is likely to be) an already strained bank account.

Here's to a wonderful, joyous, and safe holiday season. Please help spread word of this blog series to ensure that the holiday turns out that way for everyone.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 5: Lilies

Day 4: Batteries

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series (Day 5 - Lilies)

Sun, 16 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 5: Lilies

While lilies don’t exactly ‘scream’ Christmas, flowers do – and lilies are amongst the most common types of flowers found in bouquets at all times of the year, including Christmas. That, plus their very high toxic potential for cats, is what gets lilies into this series of blog posts.

Lily toxicity is something everybody should be aware of, regardless of whether or not they have cats. Even non-cat owners need to know about this because they may well be the one to send you your next bouquet of flowers! If they’re not aware of the danger they won’t know to advise the florist that lilies should not be included in the bouquet. Do yourself and your cats a favor, be sure to share word of this post once you’ve read it through.

Be aware…

Stargazer lilies, Rubrum lilies, Tiger lilies, and the other members of the Lilum genus, the ‘true lilies’ as they are known, are highly toxic to cats. So too are certain types of Day lilies.

These types of lilies are so toxic, that a nibble on one or two petals, or the ingestion of a small amount of pollen (such as what happens when a cat grooms itself) can be enough to put a cat into expensive, debilitating, and potentially fatal acute kidney failure.

I’ve written on the mechanisms and dangers of lily toxicity in cats before. So for the sake of brevity, I’m including a link here for you to read more about it. It's important to spread the word that Lilies Kill Cats! The post linked above includes the HTML code to embed the infographic below onto your website or blog.

It is important to keep in mind that lilies don’t only make it into your house in the form of bouquets that you purchase, they also frequently come in bouquets given or sent to you from your friends, loved ones, and admirers too.

Be prepared…

As with most pet toxicities, time is of the essence if you are to improve the chances of a favorable outcome for both your cat and your wallet.

If you see your cat chewing on one of the aforementioned lilies, or if you see the results of them having done so (such as pieces of lily in their vomit), it is important that you bring your pet for veterinary evaluation and treatment straightaway. The benefits of early and aggressive diagnostics and treatment are typically decreased overall treatment costs and an improved prognosis for full recovery. The goal is to prevent acute renal failure from occurring, or to at least mitigate its severity, should it occur.

Sadly, it’s common for many pet owners to take a ‘wait and see’ approach to pet poisonings, and though this is never an approach that I recommend, it is even less advisable in cases of lily exposure in cats. Again, the treatment for acute kidney failure once it has set-in is significantly more expensive (and less likely to help) than anything you would spend to undertake early and aggressive diagnostics and treatment to avoid the progression to acute kidney failure.

I’m also including a link here to the resources page of my website (www.ThePreventiveVet.com). About halfway down on this page you will find a list of the best animal-specific poison control centers in the US (along with contact info). You should program these numbers into your phone as well for ease of reference.

Be preventive…

If you have cats…

Don’t bring lilies into your home - period. No matter how ‘out of reach’ you think you can put these flowers, the truth is that cats are excellent jumpers and, even more importantly, the pollen from the lilies will travel on the air currents in your house and the dying leaves will fall to the ground. It truly is not worth the risk.
Remove any lilies from bouquets that people may bring or send you.
Share this information with your friends and family, in as many ways as you can (word of mouth, Facebook, Twitter, email, whatever). The more of your loved ones that know about this, the lower the likelihood that they will send or bring you a bouquet containing these potentially deadly flowers.
Don’t let your cats outside. Even if you don’t have lilies in your garden, your neighbor may.
If you choose to let them outside, remove all toxic lilies from your garden or truly prevent your cat’s access to them (easier said than done - safest just to remove the lily plants).

Whether or not you have cats…

Spread the word about the dangers (and costs) of lily toxicity in cats. Reblog this post, share it on your Facebook page, Tweet about it, +1 it on Google +, spread it on StumbleUpon or Reddit, text someone about it, or just talk to them about it over coffee (yes, people still occasionally still speak face-to-face… this is a good thing).
Embed the infographic from earlier in this post on your website or blog. And don't forget to ask your vet, groomer, and local florist to do so, too. Here's the link again to grab the HTML code.
Make sure to specifically request ‘no lilies’ in any arrangement or bouquet that you are sending to a friend or loved one who has cats.
Make sure your local or preferred florist is well aware of the dangers of lilies when it comes to cats.

Here's to a wonderful, joyous, and safe holiday season. Please help spread word of this blog series to ensure that the holiday turns out that way for everyone.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 4: Batteries

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series (Day 4 - Batteries)

Sat, 15 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 4: Batteries

Christmas and batteries just seem to go hand-in-hand, don't they? Well, regardless of whether those batteries are for your child's toy, a new camera, or your cool new digital watch, you really should take the necessary precautions to keep them out of your pet's mouth.

Now you might not think that your dog would eat a battery, but given the frequency with which these types of cases are seen in pet emergency rooms and general practices around the country, it appears as though, for some reason, quite a few dogs just seem to love chewing on and swallowing these things!

Be aware...

Most of the batteries you'll encounter this holiday season will be of the alkaline type. These are your typical 'AA' and 'AAA' batteries. But not all batteries are created equal. Those little disc batteries, particularly the lithium ones, pose an added hazard too. Battery ingestion can cause a multitude of problems that you should be aware of...

If your dog chews a battery they are at risk of suffering caustic burns and ulceration within their mouth and/or esophagus (the muscular tube which connects the mouth to the stomach) from the caustic material contained within the battery. These burns can result in pain, refusal of food, increased drooling, bad breath, and they can become infected too.
An ingested battery can obstruct the normal passage of food through the digestive tract ('foreign body obstruction'), leading to vomiting, diarrhea, abdominal pain, and a refusal to eat. These cases require expensive surgery to resolve, without which these pets will almost certainly die. (* Endoscopy is typically not recommended in cases of battery ingestion, even when the ingested battery is still within the stomach. For the reason why, see below in the reasons not to induce vomiting in dogs that have ingested batteries.)
Lithium disc batteries have a nasty habit of getting stuck within the esophagus when ingested. These types of batteries adhere to the lining of the esophagus, increasing the chances and severity of esophageal ulceration. If such a foreign body is not detected and promptly removed, the ulcer it gives rise to can progress to a perforation (hole) in the esophagus - which carries a very grave prognosis for survival and requires specialized (read 'expensive' and 'not available everywhere') surgery for repair.

Be prepared...

It is very important that you do NOT induce vomiting in a pet that has ingested a battery, and there are three very important reasons why.

As previously discussed, punctured batteries leak caustic material which causes ulcers within the digestive tract. If you cause your pet to vomit up a punctured battery, you double the exposure of their esophageal mucosa to the leaking caustic material. This, of course, increases the chances that your pet will suffer from ulcers. (This is the same reason why endoscopy is typically not indicated for removal of ingested batteries.)
Induction of vomiting is never without its potential complications, and doing so after battery ingestion is particularly dangerous. When a pet vomits there is always the risk of the vomited material gaining access to their respiratory tract and lungs (“being aspirated)”. In all situations this can be problematic, but in the case of corrosive alkaline materials, this will be even more dangerous. The damage that can occur within the lungs can easily prove fatal.
The most common 'at-home' remedy used to induce vomiting in pets is hydrogen peroxide. The way hydrogen peroxide works to cause vomiting is by direct irritant action on the lining of the stomach. If your pet has just chewed on or ingested a battery, they have already just sustained a significant irritation to their stomach and esophageal lining. By administering hydrogen peroxide, you add insult to injury and increase the likelihood of gastrointestinal bleeding and/or perforation.

If your pet ingests a battery, the best first steps you can take is to feed them a bland, bulking diet and offer some milk or water. Then, bring them for veterinary evaluation ASAP. Batteries are one type of foreign body that usually quite readily shows up on x-rays, and this is a good thing. This makes it easier to diagnose and to initiate appropriate treatment sooner.

Although you can likely find a few stories on the Internet of pets who passed batteries without incident, in the vast majority of cases pets do far better when such foreign bodies are surgically removed. And if nothing else, the attending veterinarian can get your pet started on an appropriate medication regime that can alleviate the pain and infection potential of the resulting ulcers.

Be preventive...

As you might imagine, the aforementioned children's toys, cameras, and watches aren't the only sources from which your pets might find batteries to ingest. Keep these other sources in mind too as you try to avoid this preventable pet emergency...

Remote controls (tv, VCR/DVD, gaming consoles, car alarms, etc)
Hearing aids (dogs LOVE the taste of ear wax!)
Calculators
Flashlights
Wireless computer devices (mouse, keyboard, etc)
Garage door openers

To avoid winding up at the ER with a battery-charged dog on or around the holidays (or any other time of the year for that matter), consider the following steps...

Don't leave remote controls, of any type, lying around where your pets can easily get them.
Be aware that batteries are common stocking stuffers, be sure to hang your stockings high and keep your pets well away from them (for a variety of reasons).
If they're old enough, be sure to talk with your children about the dangers of battery ingestion in pets and the importance of them putting their toys away after they are done playing with them. (If your kids aren't old enough to understand this discussion, then you also likely need to be careful about their potential to ingest batteries themselves - this is one of those emergencies that isn't restricted to pets. Click here for an abstract on the problem in children.)
To prevent dropped batteries from rolling under the couch or desk where they are likely to remain 'lost' until they turn up in your pet's stomach, always remove and change batteries over a bowl or sink.
Appropriately and securely store your spare batteries in a drawer or toolbox.

Here's to a wonderful, joyous, and safe holiday season. Don't let a chewed battery and the necessary ensuing trip to the ER cause your pet pain, deplete your bank account, and otherwise ruin the festivities.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 3: Mistletoe

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series (Day 3 - Mistletoe)

Fri, 14 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 3: Mistletoe

Before you pucker up to kiss your sweetheart, be sure that bunch of mistletoe is well secured to the door jam. Though a strategically placed sprig of mistletoe may get you that Christmas snog you've been dreaming about all year, it may also land your cat or dog in the hospital if it falls to the ground or they find another way to get their paws on it.

Be aware...

Even when eaten in small quantities, mistletoe can cause your pets excessive drooling and digestive upset. The latter of which may manifest as vomiting and diarrhea - which kinda ruins the thought of the previously mentioned snog I guess, doesn't it. But even bigger problems are in store for your pet if they ingest a larger quantity of this common Christmas decoration.

In these situations your pet may experience heart and/or neurologic problems, which could include abnormal heart rate and rhythm, decreased blood pressure, and a staggered walk. If left untreated, these signs can progress to collapse, seizures, coma, and even death. Now I've really ruined the thought of the snog, haven't I? I'm sorry, truly, I am... but you really should be aware of this.

Be prepared...

If your pet has ingested any quantity of mistletoe you should seek immediate veterinary advice. You can do so from your regular veterinarian, the local veterinary emergency hospital, or from one of the dedicated animal poison control hotlines (click here for a link to their numbers). Though severe toxicity from mistletoe is uncommon, many factors will influence the degree of toxicity your pet will experience should they be unfortunate enough to ingest it. And as with all potential or known toxicities, you should not delay in seeking professional veterinary advice. The sooner appropriate actions are taken, the greater the chances that a better outcome will be realized.

Be preventive...

If you hang mistletoe in your home, be sure its well secured.
Take the berries off of any mistletoe you hang in your home.
Be careful when putting up (and taking down) your holiday decorations; do not leave the mistletoe laying around where your pets can get to it.

May you get everything you wish for this holiday season - including that snog. While you're waiting though, be sure to follow along with this series of blog posts.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 2: Fruitcake

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series (Day 2 - Fruitcake)

Thu, 13 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 2: Fruitcake

Ah, the Christmas fruitcake! Whether you use it as a doorstop or an actual dessert, be careful around your pets with this staple of some Christmas festivities. If the alcohol in these dense cakes doesn't cause a problem for your 'furkids', the raisins, currants, and yeast they often contain likely will.

Raisins and currants

Most fruitcake recipes call for dried fruits, and this typically includes raisins and/or currants. As I've discussed in a previous blog post (click here), raisins, currants, and grapes can be highly toxic to your dog's kidneys. Not all dogs are affected by the toxin, and we don't yet know what the exact toxin is. However, in those dogs that are affected, the result can be devastating, permanent, expensive, and potentially fatal acute renal (kidney) failure.

The costs associated with treatment for acute kidney failure can vary widely and will mostly depend on how quickly they receive appropriate medical care and how well they respond to it. When it comes to treatment for acute kidney failure, from any cause, not all medical facilities and their capabilities are the same. Given the need for round the clock IV fluid diuresis, intensive monitoring, and the benefits of advanced treatment modalities (such as dialysis or renal replacement therapy), cases of acute kidney failure can truly only be effectively treated in facilities that are staffed around the clock and typically in hospitals staffed by doctors and technicians with advanced training. (*Note that this is not the same type of kidney failure that develops slowly in cats and dogs as they age, that type of failure is called chronic kidney failure and it can often be effectively managed in your regular veterinarian's office.)

Alcohol

Similar to the effects it can have in people, alcohol can cause several problems in your cats and dogs. And unlike the uncle that everyone is embarrassed by at the holidays, it doesn't take much alcohol for your pets to get into trouble. While you won't typically need to worry about your intoxicated cat or dog getting behind the wheel of a car (unless their name is "Toonces" - see video below if that name doesn't ring a bell), you still have to worry about the results of their alcohol ingestion none the less.

Alcohol can lead to both metabolic and neurologic problems in your pets that can result in vomiting, breathing problems, coma, and death. Given the high 'proof' of many Christmas fruitcakes, you'd be wise to take the steps necessary to keep them well out of your pet's reach. And keep the wine glasses and cocktails off the low-lying tables too while you're at it.

Uncooked yeast

Some fruitcake recipes call for yeast to be used in the dough, making the uncooked dough a potential danger to your curious or mischievous pet. As I covered in the recent Thanksgiving Pet Safety post (click here), uncooked yeast can cause a very dangerous buildup of alcohol and gas within your pet's stomach resulting in their death or a very stressful (though good smelling) trip to the veterinarian.

Be aware...

Whether you call it 'fruitcake', 'stollen', 'panettone', or 'birnenbrot', these laden-with-fruit cakes can pose a variety of dangers to any pet that might venture to try them. From kidney failure to a gas distended stomach leading to cardiovascular collapse and shock, the hazard (and cost) potential is high.

Be prepared...

If your pet does get into the holiday fruitcake, cooked or uncooked, contact a veterinarian or pet-specific poison control hotline (click here for links) immediately for advice. Especially in the case of raisin and currant or raw yeast ingestion, time is of the essence. Do not attempt to induce vomiting without first speaking with a veterinarian. If your pet is staggering, attempting to vomit without success, or has collapsed, bring them for immediate veterinary evaluation.

Be preventive...

Put uncooked bread dough in the microwave or conventional oven to rise, rather than leaving them out on a countertop or table.
Don't leave a fruitcake under the tree... wrapping paper is no match for a dog's nose and teeth.
Keep your pets well away from the dessert table. Better yet, give your pets their own 'safe room' to stay in while the family enjoys the Christmas dinner.
Be careful where you put your dessert plate down.
Make sure that all of your holiday guests are aware of the dangers associated with this common pet hazard (as well as the other 11 that I will be covering in this series of blog posts).

May all of your holiday preparations go smoothly and may all of your holiday fruitcakes be as tasty as the Dresden Stollen! (It's best lightly toasted, yummy.)

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Here's a recap of this 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series so far:

Day 1: Tinsel

Google

Deck The Halls: The 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas Series (Day 1 - Tinsel)

Wed, 12 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Day 1: Tinsel

Cats and tinsel can be an expensive combination, and it can prove fatal, too!

Tinsel is often a very attractive toy for cats. After all, its shiny, it dangles, and it’s something new in their environment. Few cats can pass it up – and even fewer can "pass it out".

When cats play with tinsel, they often end up swallowing some or getting some wrapped around their tongue, and this is when their nightmare (and yours) will begin. Fortunately, with awareness and some simple preventive steps, this is a common pet emergency that you can easily avoid. Read on to learn how...

Be aware...

Objects your pet ingests that then cause obstruction of their digestive tract are called 'foreign bodies'. There are two general types of foreign bodies that commonly obstruct the digestive tracts of cats and dogs.

Linear foreign bodies: String-like materials (e.g. sewing thread, dental floss, fishing line, and many others) where one end of the strand becomes entangled or 'caught' at some point along the digestive tract while the other end is free to be moved along by the normal rhythmic movement of the intestines. This sets up a 'sawing type' action where the middle portion of the strand, the portion between the entangled end and the free end, becomes embedded within and eventually cuts through the intestine. This is not only painful for your pet, as you might imagine, but it also results in the spillage of intestinal contents into their abdomen. Its this latter consequence that makes this type of foreign body likely to be fatal without prompt and appropriate treatment (i.e. surgery).
All others: Anything a pet ingests which causes complete or partial obstruction of their digestive tract through a means other than that described above for linear foreign bodies. These types of foreign bodies also typically require surgery (or endoscopy) for removal because of the damage they cause within the digestive tract, but that's a topic for another blog post.

Tinsel is a very common linear foreign body in cats at this time of the year, and one that can quickly deplete an already stressed savings account (you did get gifts for all of your loved ones, didn't you?). Be aware of this common holiday cat hazard to help prevent it.

Be prepared...

If your cat is vomiting, lethargic, or not eating bring them for veterinary evaluation sooner rather than later. Delay in cases of linear foreign body obstruction will lead to a greater degree of dehydration, electrolyte imbalances, and damage to the intestines. If you see tinsel (or any other type of linear material) protruding from your pet's rectum DO NOT pull on it!

If you do, you may cause significantly more damage than you are trying to prevent. You can carefully cut the protruding portion with scissors - just be careful not to cut their tail or their rectum in the process. It’s also a good idea, as gross as it may sound, to save the cut off portion of the strand and bring it with you to the veterinarian (I suggest putting it into a plastic bag). Bringing it along can help to determine the length of the strand still within your pet's digestive tract, and therefore how much needs to be retrieved surgically.

Be preventive...

If you have cats, it’s safest not to use any tinsel in your holiday decorating. While it’s true that they may not play with or eat it, there really is no guarantee and it only needs to happen once.

Given that the complications and costs associated with medical care and surgical removal of linear foreign bodies often run in the $2,000-4,000 range, I imagine you will agree that it really is best to take the simple steps necessary to prevent it. Of course, the simplest of those steps is to not have any tinsel on the tree or anywhere else in your home if you've got cats. If you must use tinsel, keep a very close eye and be sure to keep your cats well away from it. (And from a realistic standpoint... start saving your money, because if you continue to use tinsel in your cat's environment, one day, perhaps not this year, but one day, your cat is very likely to need surgery to remove it from their digestive tract.)

Another very common linear foreign body type will be covered later on in this list of the 12 Pet Hazards of Christmas - so stay tuned.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

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Spoil Your Pup: The 10 Best Holiday Gifts for Dogs

Sun, 02 Dec 2012 08:00:00 GMT

The holiday shopping season is officially here! Are you wondering what gifts to get for your dogs? Well, if so, you’ve come to the right place for great ideas. Now these aren’t going to be what most would consider “traditional” gifts – no. These are gifts that will truly make your dog’s life better, and will likely extend it too. And, after all, isn’t that really the best way to spoil your best friend? Check out my list of the 10 best gifts for dogs below, it’s a bit of a long post, but stick with it – you and your dog will both be happy you did.

Glowdoggie LED lighted dog collar: This collar is absolutely brilliant – no dog should be without one! The Glowdoggie collar is 100% waterproof and has a wonderfully bright glow to it. Wendy has had her’s for almost a year now and I absolutely LOVE it! It gets pretty dark and wet here in Portland; this collar does an awesome job of improving her visibility. In fact, multiple people have stopped us to inquire about the collar after having seen it from down the road or across the street. It would also be a great solution for those dogs that are let out into a fenced yard late at night and in the early morning – no more shining a flashlight in hopes of finding them or getting reflection back from a thin strip of reflective collar material. I truly can’t recommend this collar highly enough. The only weird thing about it is that you have to store it upside down to get it to turn off, as there’s no on/off switch for it (due to the waterproof design). A small price to pay for a product that will definitely help to keep your dog safe – now if only they made them in belt size for people! You can order direct from their website at www.Glowdoggie.com. If you prefer to shop in a brick & mortar store, the website lists those, too. Check out the video below of the Glowdoggie collar “in action”.

PetHub tag: For those who’ve spent any time following my blog or social media pages, you’re likely already aware of my love affair with the awesome QR code ID tags from PetHub. But have you taken the simple and important step of getting one yet? For those of you who don’t yet know what the PetHub tag is, get ready to learn of something super cool, and super brilliant. By using QR code technology, the PetHub tag doesn’t just greatly increase the chances that you and your dog will be reunited should they ever escape the yard or otherwise go missing, it also provides an easily customizable and updatable way to keep track of all your dog’s important medical information. For those of you who aren’t aware of what QR code technology is, click here for the Wikipedia article on it. The QR technology means that anyone with a smartphone can now play an integral role in helping to reunite you you’re your lost dog, and it puts you in charge of what information they see. No longer do you have to depend on changing your dog’s tags everytime you move or change your phone number, and no longer does the Good Samaritan who finds your dog have to take them to a vet or shelter to have them scanned. Even if the person who finds your dog doesn’t have a QR reader app on their smartphone, the toll-free number on each tag means they can still easily find you and get your dog home. These tags are especially great if you travel frequently with your dog, as their personal webpage and your contact info on the PetHub website can be easily updated from the road, at any time. I highly recommend the PetHub tag for ALL dogs – even those with a microchip (see below). Check them out and order online at www.PetHub.com. (*There are cat-sized tags available on their website, too.)

Microchip: If your pets aren’t already microchipped – this quick and simple safety step should definitely, 100%, unequivocally be on your holiday shopping list for them! In fact, this shouldn’t wait for the holidays – make an appointment at your vet’s office now to have it done. Microchips reunite families and save lives – period. Once the microchip has been implanted it is vitally important that you register it with the company and keep your contact information up-to-date (consider setting yourself a reminder once per year to ensure your contact info is up-to-date – maybe on your dog’s birthday?). Ask the staff at your vet’s office to scan the chip to ensure proper placement and function at each of your pet’s visits thereafter. Even if you have a PetHub tag for your dog, the microchip serves as an excellent “insurance policy” should your dog’s collar ever come off. (*If your dog is already “chipped”, let this serve as a reminder to double check that your contact information on file with the registration company is up-to-date. Also note that microchipping is important for cats, too.)

Tagg – The Pet Tracker: This compact, collar-attached GPS unit is a very cool piece of kit, but I don’t think it needs to be on a holiday shopping list for all dogs. For dogs with certain “lifestyles” though, it can be a real lifesaver – both for you and for them! I believe this is a great accessory for hunting dogs and those that accompany you on frequent hikes, camping trips, or other outdoor excursions (snowshoeing, anyone?). These are all situations where it’s easily possible for your dog (or you) to get lost. If they’re wearing their Tagg GPS unit, they’ll be much easier to find. And, if you both lose your way back, family members and friends can find you more easily, too (so long as they have the Tagg app on their phone and know your login info). Definitely a cool use of technology, don’t you think? However, for your typical dog that just spends its days in or around your home, such a GPS unit is likely overkill. Sure, go ahead and use it, as they suggest, for dogs that frequently escape the house or yard and go “walkabout” around the neighborhood – but recognize that you, and your dog, would be far better served by proper training and the installation of a secure fence around your yard. After all, even though the Tagg unit will make them easier to find on their unescorted neighborhood jaunts, it isn’t going to prevent them from getting hit by a car, licking up antifreeze, or even biting a neighborhood child. Check out the Tagg tracker here, there are plenty of places to pick these up.

Bergan Harness: Those of you who have been following The Preventive Vet for any period of time will likely know how strongly I feel about the importance of proper pet travel safety (if not, click here), and you’ll likely also know that the only pet travel harness I recommend and trust is the Bergan Travel Harness. Giving the gift of travel restraint to your dogs doesn’t only keep them safer (though that should be enough of a reason); it keeps you and everyone else in your car and on the roads safer as well. Click to read my previous review of the Bergan harness, and check out the video here of me demonstrating the ease of use of the Bergan harness. (*Very special thanks to my friends at Spot Magazine for producing this great video.)

SleepyPod: My preference for travel restraint of cats and small dogs, the SleepyPod is a great (and very stylish) carrier that can be used both in the car and on flights. It’s been crash tested and is easily secured to your car seat by use of the car’s own seatbelt. Though the Sleepypod is a bit spendy, it’s a great piece of gear and very well constructed, it should provide many years of safety and ease of transport for your smaller pets. Check it out here.

Pet Insurance: Yes, that's right - I said "pet insurance". This may seem like a strange thing to put on a holiday gift guide for pets – but think about it, good insurance is something that can give you peace of mind and help ensure that your pets can receive the best care should they ever suffer an illness or emergency. Doesn’t that seem like a pretty good definition of a “gift”? Cause let’s face it, should your cat or dog ever wind up in the ER at 2am on a Sunday morning (or at any other time, for that matter) could you ever picture yourself saying “boy, I sure am happy I got my dog that fancy bed/coat/collar/whatever for the holidays”? No, right? But I guarantee that, so long as you choose your company and plan wisely, you’ll be thankful you got insurance! In fact, this is also a great gift to get for your “Granddogs” – your kids will LOVE you for it! Not sure which insurance company to go with? Understandable, there’s quite a few and it can be confusing. I’ve got my personal favorites that I typically recommend – you can see my previous blog post on financial preparedness for pet emergencies to see which ones they are. If you’d like another great opinion and resource, a colleague of mine, Dr. Doug Kenney from Tennessee, has put together a wonderful, comprehensive, extremely helpful, and – oh yeah – FREE downloadable guide for all pet owners to help them evaluate all their options and decide which company and policy is best for them and their specific pets. Dr. Kenney is a wealth of knowledge on “all things pet insurance”, he created and maintains a great website on the topic and hosts a regular pet insurance podcast, too. You can (and should) check out his blog and podcast here, and you can download his free Pet Insurance Toolkit here.

Dental cleaning: Now I know that this one doesn’t exactly sound like a great holiday gift for anyone – after all, how many of you wouldn’t give your spouse the cold shoulder if they presented you with a gift certificate for a trip to the dentist! However, as it is for you, dental health is extremely important for your pet’s overall wellbeing and comfort. But, unlike you (hopefully), your pet’s dental health has probably been overlooked for way too long. Don’t take offense though, they wouldn’t be alone - did you know that most cats and dogs over 3 years old have some degree of periodontal disease. Now that’s not just plaque and tartar on their teeth, “periodontal disease” means that they have disease of their gums and/or the ligaments and bones that help to hold the teeth in place. Surprised? You really shouldn’t be – imagine if you never (or very infrequently) brushed your teeth for over 3 years. Certain breeds (and their mixes) are at increased risk, too. So though it may cost you a few to several hundred dollars, a thorough dental evaluation and cleaning by your vet is truly a gift worth giving your pets. It’ll save them tooth pain and infection, and will also improve their overall health. (*Special note: please don’t make the mistake of thinking that an “anesthesia-free” teeth cleaning will be of significant benefit to your pets – there is absolutely, positively, unequivocally no way to fully evaluate the health and integrity of the gums, periodontal ligaments, jaw bones, or even the teeth without anesthesia. Though their teeth may look whiter following such a scraping, their oral health certainly won’t be significantly improved – and it may actually be worse. Only a veterinarian or their trained technician, using anesthesia and proper technique, can thoroughly and safely evaluate and improve your pet’s oral health.)

Training: While the need for training may be obvious for a new puppy, you might not realize that working with a good trainer can also help you make great strides with and improve the quality of life for your adult dogs, too. Use a trainer who focuses on positive reinforcement, desensitization, counter conditioning, and other methods that are well grounded in behavioral science. Avoid those who profess and subscribe to dominance theory methods (e.g. alpha rolls, physical punishment, etc.), as these methods aren’t only less humane, they’re also often less effective and can prove quite dangerous, too. Talk to your veterinarian and see the Pet Behavior and Training links on the Resources page of my website (scroll to the bottom). And contrary to “old school wisdom” – you can teach an old dog new tricks, you just have to know how to do it and work with great teachers! Check out this great video of Dr. Ian Dunbar, a wonderful person and an early driving force behind a lot of the developments in canine behavioral science, giving a TED talk in 2007.

Whole home pet proofing guide: When was the last time you pet-proofed your home? Now before you say that your pets are older and have never gotten into anything they shouldn’t have or suffered any other emergencies in your home or yard, recognize that the saying “there’s a first time for everything” has been around for a long time and there’s good reason for it! Trust me – my colleagues and I have seen a ton of “first times”, and heard a lot of “I never would have thoughts”, in the emergency room. My pet proofing guide is a room-by-room checklist of things you should be aware of and do to make your pet’s environment as safe as possible for them – it also includes a checklist for the yard and garage. The PDF Guide is available for easy download on my website. It’s normally a bargain at only $4.95, but I’ve made it an even better deal by putting it on 50% sale for the holidays [simply enter the promo code HOLIDAY50 at checkout]. After all, the holidays often mean lots of visitors and houseguests – many of whom unknowingly bring with them a whole host of pet hazards. Take the simple step of downloading and using my Pet Proofing Guide to safeguard your pets – you’ll be happy you did and you’ll be far more likely to spend the holidays at home with your family, rather than anxiously sitting in the waiting room of your local pet ER.

So, that’s it – my 10 best holiday dog gifts. What do you think about the list? Any great products or services you think I’ve left off? Have you already spoiled your dog with any of these? I’d love to hear your comments, thoughts, and stories. Have a wonderful, and safe, holiday season everyone!

- Jason Nicholas, BVetMed

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

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Hosting Thanksgiving? Here's What You Need To Know To Keep Your Pets Safe & Healthy This Holiday Season.

Thu, 15 Nov 2012 08:00:00 GMT

Thanksgiving is a wonderful holiday and a great time to join together with friends and family - be they two legged or four (or even three, lest we forget about our tripawd animal companions). But as you’re preparing your Thanksgiving plans this year, don’t forget to consider the common pet hazards associated with this day of friends, family, feasting, fun, and football. For if you don’t, you may be enjoying your Thanksgiving in the local animal emergency room uttering another word beginning with ‘f’. Oh, that’s right, ‘phooie’ begins with a ‘p’… my bad ;-)

To have a pet-safe Thanksgiving this year, and every year, keep in mind the following information and advice…

Many of the foods we eat safely throughout the year can cause digestive upset, obstruction, or toxicity to our pets. At Thanksgiving several of them are all in one place at the same time - a pet emergency ‘perfect storm’ of sorts. From the ‘culinary centerpiece’ to many of the common side dishes, danger-galore lurks on the Thanksgiving table.

Pet hazards commonly found on the Thanksgiving table:

Turkey:

Sure, a small amount of the Thanksgiving bird may make a safe treat for your pets. Push it though, and you could be spending your evening and the next day cleaning vomit and diarrhea out of your carpet and nursing a very sick (and painful) dog.

A tablespoon of white meat bird WITHOUT the skin, seasonings, drippings, gravy, and bones is often safe enough to give your pets for a little holiday treat. Giving them too much, or giving them any quantity of the skin, seasonings, drippings, gravy, or bones can cause inflammation of their digestive tract resulting in vomiting, diarrhea, lack of appetite, abdominal pain, and dehydration. Such inflammation (called ‘gastroenteritis’ when it affects the stomach and intestines and ‘pancreatitis’ when it affects the pancreas) often results in an unplanned trip to the veterinarian. Many cases of gastroenteritis and pancreatitis result in a hospital stay for your pet, and some cases can even prove fatal. Treatment for gastroenteritis/pancreatitis often runs in the few hundred to couple thousand dollar range.

The carcass and bones of the turkey pose an additional danger to your pet should they ingest them. Turkey bones are brittle and splinter easily, the resulting sharp points can puncture your pet’s esophagus, stomach, or intestines. Puncture in any of these structures will result in a very sick, very painful pet and require an expensive surgical procedure. Don’t allow your pets to steal the carcass, and certainly don’t intentionally give them such ‘treats’.

Speaking about the turkey… do you remember the turkey-stealing Bumpas dogs in A Christmas Story? (If not, click here for the clip on YouTube) Ever notice that you don’t see them again in the move after that incident? It’s likely because they’re deathly ill from digestive tract inflammation or puncture, or maybe even Salmonella poisoning if that turkey was undercooked. Poor dogs! (Great movie!)

* The same warnings above also go for any other type of Thanksgiving bird you might enjoy - be it chicken, duck, or all of the above (turducken is yummy!!). Anyone deep fry their turkey? And if its ham you’re serving, you still need to be careful - both of the bone and of the (often high) salt content.

Stuffing:

Thanksgiving stuffing often contain onions or garlic. In small quantities these vegetables aren’t likely to cause too big a problem for your cats and dogs, but in larger quantities, or if your pet already has a low red blood cell count (anemia) or dysfunctional red blood cells, ingestion of onions or garlic can prove both debilitating and expensive.

Additionally, as more and more people are getting creative with what they stuff inside their holiday bird, more and more of these Thanksgiving staples contain raisins, currants, or (maybe) grapes. These fruits can be highly toxic to dog kidneys, even in small quantities. Not every dog is affected, and we aren’t yet sure of the exact toxic substance, but given that the resulting acute kidney failure can be expensive to treat (well into the thousands of dollar range) and can still be fatal, best just to avoid this one at all costs. This toxicity may affect cats too.

Mashed potatoes and candied yams:

Both of these traditional Thanksgiving foods often contain significant quantities of butter and other fats, often making them irresistible to both people and pets. While an overindulgence on your part will likely lead to a post-meal unbuttoning of the pants and nap, in your dogs though such an indiscretion can lead to a post-meal bout of pancreatitis. As already discussed, pancreatitis can range in severity from mild and uncomfortable to severe and fatal, with several ‘shades of grey’ (and associated costs) in between. Certain dogs have an increased risk of developing pancreatitis, and some of these risk factors also increase the chances that their bout of pancreatic inflammation will be more severe too (read also ‘more painful, longer hospital stay, increased risk of death, and more costly’).

Generally speaking, miniature schnauzers and Silky and Yorkshire terriers are at increased risk of pancreatitis. As is any dog that is obese or has certain endocrine disorders (namely diabetes, Cushing’s disease, or hypothyroidism).

In addition to the risks associated with the fats in these side dishes, it is also important to be aware that some people use garlic in their mashed potatoes and some add raisins to their candied yams. Both of which, as previously discussed, can prove dangerous to your pets.

Corn on the cob:

While this left over yummy summer treat has never been a staple at any of my family’s Thanksgiving feasts, I know it is at others. The primary danger that corn on the cob presents to dogs is from ingestion of the cob. Many dogs will swallow large chunks of the cob, which will wind up lodging in and obstructing their intestines. And though this often makes for a cool looking x-ray for we veterinarians to look at, it also requires expensive surgery to resolve. Save yourself a few thousand dollars, and your dog the time in the hospital and on the surgery table… don’t give your dog corn cobs and don’t give them the opportunity to steal them out of the trash either.

Yeast bread and rolls:

Here it isn’t so much the finished product that’s a problem for pets, but rather the rising dough prior to baking. When yeast and starch come together in a warm environment the yeast ferment the sugars in the starch giving off carbon dioxide gas and alcohol. (Its this carbon dioxide gas that causes yeast bread dough to ‘rise’.) The yeast don’t care if that warm environment is in a covered bowl or in your dog’s stomach, its all the same to them! When this fermentation occurs in your dog’s stomach, the resulting alcohol gets into their blood stream leading to severe metabolic and neurologic abnormalities (alcohol poisoning) and the carbon dioxide distends their stomach leading to pain and a decreased return of blood to their heart (shock). Either of these can prove fatal. Add the potential for the rising mass of bread dough to cause an obstruction preventing the passage of itself and other things from the stomach into the intestine, and you’ve for sure got an emergency that you truly want to try to prevent. Check out the image below to see what rising bread dough does inside a sealed food storage container - fermentation is a pretty powerful thing!

Yeast bread dough ingestion requires an emergency trip to the veterinarian, most often leading to a hospital stay, and occasionally resulting in a surgery. If you bake your own bread or rolls, or anything else with yeast, be sure to keep it well and truly out of your dog’s reach while it’s rising. This emergency most often happens when people leave dough out to rise on the counter overnight - don’t make this mistake. Let your dough rise in a turned off conventional or microwave oven where it will truly be safely out of reach for your dogs.

If your dog does ingest yeast-containing dough, immediately try to get them to drink ice water and then get them to the veterinarian as quickly as possible. The ice water will drop the temperature within their stomach, inactivating the yeast and halting the fermentation process.

Food preparation materials and trash:

Though not typically present on the Thanksgiving table, the things that go into preparing and serving the meal can also wreak havoc with your pets and your celebration.

Aluminum foil and plastic wrap: When covered in food scraps and drippings such items become a hard-to-resist treat for your wayward pets. If ingested, these can cause inflammation and/or obstruction of your pet’s digestive tract.
Cooking twine and rubber bands: Often used to close the body cavity of the turkey, such objects can pose a very significant danger to your pets, particularly the cats. If they get partially stuck within their digestive tract, such linear foreign bodies can insidiously lead to damage to the wall of the intestine, resulting in the leakage of intestinal contents into the abdominal cavity necessitating surgery and a prolonged hospital stay.
Trashcans and compost bins: Kitchen trash cans and compost pails are a dietary indiscretion treasure trove for mischievous dogs and cats. From turkey bones and giblets to discarded coffee grounds and filters, trashcans and compost bins contain many things that can cause your pet significant health problems. Be sure to truly secure these hazards by making sure that they are closed tightly and kept safely behind closed closet or cabinet doors.

Treating pets safely can be as simple as some extra snuggle time, an extra long walk, a freshly cleaned out litter box, or a nice new bed to sleep in. But if you really feel the need to give them a little extra food snack on this day, here’s some pet safe treats to do so with.

Pumpkin puree - not the pie filling, just the plain canned pumpkin
Green beans - raw or cooked (preferably steamed or boiled)
Carrots - raw or cooked (preferably steamed or boiled, as opposed to sauteed or fried)
Apple slices - not the ones from the middle of the pie, and never whole
Turkey - in small quantities and without the skin, seasonings, bones, or gravy
Their own kibble - put some in a new interactive toy to satisfy both their belly and their boredom

Food and food preparation materials aren’t the only dangers your pets will face over the Thanksgiving holiday. Along with large meals, this is also often a time for house visitors and overnight guests. And be they neighbors and friends popping in briefly from down the street, or family coming to stay from across the country, many will inadvertently bring with them toxins and other pet hazards that could ruin your holiday and deplete your bank account. Welcome your friends and family warmly and with open arms, but be aware of the following dangers and be proactive in guarding your pet’s safety (and your free time).

Pet hazards associated with houseguests:

Presents:

Though many people are aware of the dangers associated with chocolate ingestion in pets, this is still one of the most commonly occurring pet poisonings, and this is particularly true around the holidays. When giving or receiving chocolate as a gift, be careful not to leave it out where pets can get to it. Be aware that pets can get to more areas than you might think, and appreciate that wrapping paper is no match for the dedicated teeth of dog hot on the scent of such a forbidden treat.

Flowers and plants are commonly given to the hosts of the Thanksgiving meal. Recognize though that many plants and flowers can cause poisonings in cats and dogs, and such poisonings can range in severity from mild digestive upset to organ failure. Keep flowers and plants truly out of reach of the pets, and do your hosts a favor by giving them only pet safe foliage. The ASPCA has an excellent searchable online database (complete with pictures) that anyone can access and view when making such choices. Click this link to use it.

Curly ribbon and harvest-themed twine pose a risk of linear foreign body gastrointestinal obstruction to pets, especially cats. Either don’t use them in your wrapping, or make certain to dispose of them safely and promptly once the gift is unwrapped.

Coats and purses:

Coats and purses are dangerous to pets because of what is often inside of them. Many people keep their cigarettes, gum (including sugar-free xylitol gums and nicotine replacement gums), medications, and other items (some legal, some not) in their coat pockets or bags. A pet ingesting something from a guest’s bag or coat is a very common scenario on the line at the animal poison control and in veterinary emergency rooms. Don’t let this happen to your pets, hang all coats and bags safely in a closet or on a wall hook or coat rack to avoid such a pet emergency. Doing so will not just prevent your pets from getting poisoned, but it will also prevent your pets from soiling or otherwise destroying your guests possessions.

Luggage and toiletries:

From clothing and other items that can cause digestive tract obstruction to grooming products and medications that can cause systemic poisoning, the suitcases and toiletry bags of overnight guests are a pet hazard minefield. An easy way to keep your pets safe from the things your guests bring into your home is to request that all overnight visitors keep the doors to their room and bathroom closed, and that they keep all bags up off the floor.

Stress and upset to the ‘routine’ of the home:

You’re not the only one to get stressed out around the holidays, the annual onslaught of family and friends also upsets your pet’s routine. Cats and dogs are creatures of habit, and though some are more susceptible to the stress associated with change than others, all are likely affected to some degree.

Stress in pets can lead to vomiting and diarrhea, inappropriate eliminations outside of litter boxes, decreased appetite, intense itchiness, urinary obstruction (particularly in male cats), hiding, running away, and a variety of other problems that can cost you both time and money.

Now I’m not suggesting that you ban visitors from your house or cancel the holidays all together, but I am suggesting that you take into account the disruption that such gatherings can have on your pet’s daily routine and take some precautions to minimize the stress it can cause. During a holiday party, or any other large family gathering for that matter, it’s a good idea to provide your pets with a ‘safe area’ for them to spend the evening or escape to when the festivities begin. Doing so will not only prevent many of the gastrointestinal, poisoning, and other problems discussed earlier, but it will also keep them safe from any visiting young children and will prevent their escape through an open door, too.

Be sure that you provide fresh water and some environmental enrichment, such as a stuffed Kong or other interactive toy, to keep your pets happy in this ‘safe area’. Use care though with dogs that are toy/food protective, you don’t want your environmental enrichment to lead to in-fighting amongst your pets! For cats, don’t forget to provide them with a clean and easily accessible litter box too. Ideally you should get your pets used to spending time in this safe area well in advance of the holidays.

Thanksgiving should be a wonderful day spent with friends and family reflecting on all that we have to be thankful for in this world, not one spent in the waiting room of the local pet emergency hospital. Be aware and take the simple precautions that can help to prevent the need for such a visit, allowing everyone to have a happier, healthier, and safer Thanksgiving this year. Gobble gobble.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Help... My Dog Ate Gorilla Glue! What Happens When Gorilla Glue Gets Wet - (VIDEO)

Sun, 04 Nov 2012 07:00:00 GMT

Dogs and Gorilla Glue® – Never a good mix!

Maybe you’ve already heard of the dangers that Gorilla Glue® poses to dogs? Maybe you’ve even heard stories or seen some of the cool X-ray images of dogs that ingested this stuff? But have you ever seen video of why Gorilla Glue® is hazardous to your pets. My guess is that you likely haven’t, because such a video hasn’t existed… until now!

This is cool! Check out the time-lapse video below to see what happens “When Gorilla Glue® Gets Wet”, then be sure to share it with your pet-loving friends and family. Gorilla Glue® ingestion is a serious and common dog emergency, and once you’ve seen this video, there’ll be no forgetting about or mistaking the danger! *Don’t worry, the video isn’t graphic – but it is cool and eye opening, and important for every dog owner to see.

It’s pretty impressive (and scary) how such a small amount of glue – about 1 ounce in this video – can expand to a size that will cause an obstruction of your dog’s stomach necessitating surgery to remove. Don’t you agree? Especially when you realize just how quickly it can happen – it only took about 45 minutes to an hour in this video!

Now you might be asking yourself: “Why in the world would a dog eat glue?” Well, in the case of Gorilla Glue®, apparently it smells and tastes sweet (I've never tried it myself though). But honestly, even if it didn’t, are you aware of all the things that dogs ingest on a regular basis? From socks and towels, to pacifiers and even knives, many dogs could care less about what they’re eating, they're just happy that they’re eating!

Does your dog fit that description? I suspect that many of the Lab owners out there know exactly what I’m talking about – right? And I know that the owners of the dog pictured in the radiographs below now appreciate this!

The two radiographs above are of a dog with an obstructive Gorilla Glue® mass in his stomach. (Images courtesy of Dr. Garret Pachtinger, VMD, DACVECC)

So, it’s important to recognize that dogs do ingest Gorilla Glue®, and that they do so fairly often. If you want to help your dog avoid surgery and having a stomach that looks like the one pictured in the X-rays above, be sure to follow the simple suggestions that I’m providing below. And don't forget to help your friends and family keep their pets safe, too - be sure to share this video with them and tell them about ThePreventiveVet.com.

Important things to be aware of and do to prevent your dog’s ingestion of Gorilla Glue®:

Recognize the danger (recall video above).
Keep such glues in sturdy toolboxes or secure drawers/cabinets. Store the toolbox on a stable, elevated shelf and choose drawers/cabinets that are high up and well out of your dog’s reach (be sure to take into account their height when they’re standing on their hind legs - otherwise known as "counter surfing").
Clean up spills promptly and completely.
Don’t allow your pets to be around you and your materials when working with Gorilla Glue®.
Put away all of your work materials when you’re finished working with them and clean up during breaks. (Or take steps to keep your pets away from your workspace until you are able to thoroughly clean up.)
If the above steps prove difficult to follow, then just avoid the potential for the problem entirely and don’t bring Gorilla Glue® or other such adhesives into your home or other workspace.
Recognize that it's not just Gorilla Glue® that causes this problem; it's all the other diisocyanate adhesives out there, too. It's just that Gorilla Glue® is the most popular and most heavily advertised of the bunch.
Recognize that this emergency can affect cats, too. It's just that it tends to affect dogs far more often, and that's why this article focuses on the problem in dogs. Fortunately though, the preventive steps provided above will also help to keep your cats (and children) safe, as well.

I hope you've enjoyed this video and found it, and the tips provided, useful and educational. Have a wonderful day, and, as always... Be Aware. Be Prepared. Be Preventive!

Are you a pet owner who’s dog has previously eaten Gorilla Glue®? Are you a veterinarian who’s ever dealt with a Gorilla Glue® ingestion case? Please share your story in the comments section below or on our forums.

Your Pets and Halloween

Fri, 19 Oct 2012 20:05:00 GMT

Halloween Pet Safety

Halloween is just around the corner, and what a fun time of year it is. For those of you with pets though, you should be aware that, as with many holidays, there are certain pet emergencies that occur more commonly on and around Halloween. And so, ‘All Hallows Eve’ may not be as fun a time for your cats and dogs.

But, if you’re aware of the potential for these emergencies and take the easy steps provided here, you’ll be far more likely to have a Halloween full of fun and great memories with friends and family, rather than one full of memories of a night (and a sizable chunk of change) spent in the local animal ER.

Pets and Costumes:

Do you like to dress your pets up for Halloween? Many people do. But keep these tips in mind when choosing their costume to keep them safe and out of the ER.

Avoid loose pieces of fabric and dangling small objects (such as bells). Pets may be tempted to chew off such objects. And if swallowed, you could be looking at a veterinary bill in excess of $2,000 to have it removed from their stomach or intestines.
Avoid masks on pets. Not only are most pets cute enough without them, but many masks can obstruct your pet’s vision and/or their ability to breathe. If your pet can’t see well they’re at greater risk of traumatic injuries - such as broken bones from stepping in holes or falling off curbs, as well as from being struck by a passing car. Broken bones require expensive surgeries to repair, and hit-by-car injuries can result in prolonged intensive care hospital stays and/or death. As for messing with your pet’s ability to breathe, I don’t imagine I need to tell you why that’s a bad thing, right?
>Are you planning on dyeing your pet’s fur for the evening? Be careful when choosing the dye. Make sure it is safe for your pets; you don’t want it causing skin irritation or an allergic reaction. And you don’t want it causing gastrointestinal upset or toxicity if your pet licks it off. ‘Pet-safe’ or not, you should always avoid applying such dyes to the area around their eyes and mouth.
If you plan on taking your pet with you for the trick-or-treating jaunt around the neighborhood, be sure to include some reflective or self-illuminating material on your pet’s costume. Night visibility on the roads is always diminished in the fall. Whatever you can do to increase your pet’s visibility to passing cars will help to ensure that they won’t wind up getting hit by one of them. Also consider putting a flashing light on their collar for nighttime walks, at Halloween and throughout the year.

Keep them confined or restrained:

For their safety and for that of others, be sure to restrain your pets on this festive evening.

For pets that will join you trick-or-treating around the neighborhood, keep them on a leash the whole time. Leashes save lives! A leash will not only keep your pet from bolting in front of a passing car, but it will also help you prevent them from eating dropped candy, and other potentially toxic things from the ground. Leashes also prevent dog fights and keep spooked dogs from running off. Importantly, don’t let a young child be the only one holding on to your pet’s leash during the walk. This is good advice throughout the year, but even more so on Halloween when passing trick-or-treaters are an additional factor that can cause pets to slip their collars or pull away from their leash. (Street-crossing squirrels or cats, and rolling tennis balls are just some of the factors that can cause dogs to do so at all times of the year.)
Keep your cats inside on and around Halloween. Aside from all the normal dangers that outdoor cats face on a daily basis, Halloween (and the even more dangerous ‘Mischief Night’ that precedes it) potentially carry with them the additional dangers of twisted kids (and sadly, adults too) intentionally traumatizing, mutilating, or otherwise torturing cats on these nights. Though such incidences sadly occur throughout the year, there may be an increased risk associated with this holiday. Don’t take the chance – keep ‘em inside.
Cars and ‘mentally unstable’ people aren’t the only dangers to unrestrained pets. The constantly opening doors associated with a barrage of trick-or-treaters also pose a significant danger to pets. Pets with access to opening doors may take advantage of the opportunity to bolt out of the house, not only putting them in danger of the litany of typical outdoor hazards unrestrained pets face, but also of having a paw, tail, or other part of their body caught in the door as they make their ‘Indiana Jones-esque’ dash through the closing door. Such traumatic events can cause injuries significant enough to warrant an expensive orthopedic surgery or a prolonged hospital stay. Some such injuries can even lead to long-term urinary or bowel incontinence for your pet, and some can lead to death (especially if it’s their head or chest that gets crushed in a closing door). Confine your pets to a ‘safe area’ of the house to prevent their access to open doors. Use pet crates, baby gates, or closed doors to do so. Providing them with food, water, litter boxes, and anything else that will be necessary to minimize their stress (perhaps an interactive food toy or a turned on television or radio) will also help to decrease the likelihood of destructive behaviors or loud barking.
Confining and restraining your pets isn’t just about their safety either, although that should be reason enough to do so. Stressed or otherwise nervous pets are also more likely to bite and scratch, and few things will be as stressful and scary to your pets as a constant stream of loud and excited kids dressed in all manner of costume coming to your front door. So for the sake of the neighborhood children, and your liability insurance premiums, be sure to restrain and confine your pets on Halloween.

Haunted House?

Be careful with your pets around the Halloween decorations.

Fake spider webbing material can lead to obstruction of your pet’s stomach and/or intestines if ingested, requiring an expensive surgical procedure to resolve.
Spoiling pumpkins can lead to digestive upset in bored, mischievous, or curious pets that eat them. This can lead to an emergency trip to the veterinarian, as well as a big mess to clean out of your carpets. Be sure to clean up your holiday pumpkins before they start rotting on your doorstep.
If you use real candles to light your jack-o-lanterns, be careful not to let your pets around them. Knocked over candles can cause burns to your pets, and they can lead to a house fire, as well.

Stick with the tricks, avoid the treats:

Now, you may have gotten to this point wondering... 'What about the chocolate, isn’t that a common Halloween pet hazard?' And indeed, you’d be right. Chocolate can be a very real (and common) Halloween pet hazard. I just figured that most resources talking about Halloween pet safety start out with and focus on chocolate and the other food hazards associated with this holiday, I decided to do mine differently. But at last, we have arrived at the section on the Halloween food hazards for pets. And so, without further adieu…

Chocolate. Everybody’s favorite, and the one that typically leads to the most calls to veterinarians this time of year. As many of you know, chocolate is indeed problematic to cats and dogs. The darker the chocolate, the more toxic, and the smaller the quantity necessary to see effects. For pets with pre-existing heart disease or seizure conditions, the concern is even higher, as these are two of the big ‘target organs’ for the toxic effects of chocolate. So while a few M&Ms isn’t likely to cause a problem for your healthy 80# Labrador, its still a good idea to keep all chocolate safely out of reach of all your pets. And keep in mind too that chocolate also typically has a high fat content, which can lead to digestive upset and pancreatitis in your pets.
Xylitol. Sadly, this is one toxin that many dog owners are still unaware of. Shame too, as this is some potent and nasty stuff when ingested by a dog. Even in small quantities, this substance can cause a rapid drop in your dog’s blood sugar level, leading to seizures, collapse, coma, and death. In higher quantities, xylitol can cause liver failure, which is often irreversible and fatal. Xylitol is commonly found in sugar-free gums, mints and other candies, as well as in certain sugar-free baked goods. Be careful of kid’s candy bags, as well as your purse. Be sure to hang them al well out of reach of your pets. (For more information on xylitol toxicity, as well as the raisin toxicity mentioned below, see this previous blog post of mine on some ‘less well known pet toxins’.)
Raisin toxicity. Known to be a problem for some dogs (and possibly some cats), raisins may be found in your child’s candy bag as part of certain chocolate bars, and also on their own from well-intentioned neighbors trying to provide healthier Halloween treats. We don’t know which pets will be susceptible to the toxic effects of raisins, nor the number of raisins that must be ingested before problems are seen. So it’s truly best to play it safe and take the necessary precautions to prevent all of your pets from ingesting any quantity of raisins. (Grapes and currants have the same toxic potential as raisins, and so should be similarly avoided.)
The actual treats in your kid’s Halloween bounty aren’t the only potential problem for your pets either. Ingested candy wrappers can also lead to digestive system inflammation and/or obstruction, resulting in episodes of vomiting and/or diarrhea, as well as an unplanned trip to the veterinarian, and possibly the surgery table. Keep candy well out of reach of all your pets. Hang your children’s candy bag high-up on a wall hook or coat rack, and don’t leave the trick-or-treat candy you are planning on distributing sitting out on the coffee table while waiting for the neighborhood kids to start arriving.

With a little bit of awareness and forethought, Halloween can indeed be a fun time for the whole family - including the pets. Without such planning though, it can be a very scary time indeed! Have a great Halloween, everybody!

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

I Hate Heat Stroke: Let's Raise Awareness of this Easily Preventable Condition (Infographic)

Thu, 13 Sep 2012 07:00:00 GMT

Does it infuriate you to see pets left in parked cars on hot days? Do you get frustrated reading and hearing all the news stories of dogs suffering and dying from heat stroke? Wanna do something about it?

Great!

Here's your chance...

"I Hate Heat Stroke" - An infographic by The Preventive Vet

Embed "I Hate Heat Stroke" on Your Site: Copy and Paste the Code Below

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What you can do:

Embed the above graphic on your blog or website, and encourage others (your vet, groomer, dog walker, etc) to do the same. The embed code is directly below the graphic.
Share this blog post, as well as this other highly informative and convincing post, on your social media sites (who's on Pintrest?).
Tweet with the hash tag #IHateHeatStroke
Submit it to DiggIt, Reddit, and StumbleUpon.
Tell your friends, family, neighbors, and co-workers about ThePreventiveVet.com.

Together we can make a difference. Together we can increase awareness, and decrease Heat Stroke. Doesn't that sound good!

Have a great day everybody. Now let's get this image to go viral!

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Lilies Kill Cats: A Vitally Important Post and Graphic for ALL Cat Owners

Thu, 13 Sep 2012 07:00:00 GMT

Are you aware that as beautiful and sweet smelling a flower as the common lily can be, it can be deadly to your cats?

It’s true! And, sadly, if you weren’t aware of this, you wouldn’t be alone.

Certain types of lilies are amongst the most dangerous types of flowers for cats, and yet so few people are aware of it. The goal of this blog post and infographic is to change that. And with your help, we can do it – we can increase awareness and decrease cases of devastating lily toxicity in cats. Now doesn’t that sound like a worthy cause? So let’s get to it…

What lilies do you need to worry about?

Stargazer
Tiger
Easter
Japanese Show
Rubrum
And any other members of the genus Lilum, otherwise known as the ‘true lilies’
Certain types of Daylily (Hemerocallis sp.)

What kind of problems do they cause & how bad can it be?

The toxic compound in lilies is extremely destructive to a cat’s kidneys. It takes only a nibble on only one leaf or stem, the drinking of the vase water these flowers are sitting in, or the ingestion of a small amount of pollen from these flowers (such as when your cat grooms itself) to send your cat into acute kidney failure and you rushing them to the emergency room.

Don’t be mislead by the sweet-sounding nature of the word ‘acute’ either, it has nothing to do with how ‘adorable’ the condition is. In fact, acute kidney (renal) failure is anything but ‘adorable’. It is always debilitating to your pet and expensive for you - hence the reason for this post and the (sharable) graphic below...

Lilies Kill Cats - An infographic by The Preventive Vet

Embed Lilies Kill Cats on Your Site:
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What happens if your cat eats any part of one of these lilies?

The prognosis for cats with acute kidney failure resulting from lily ingestioncan be good, so long as early and aggressive decontamination and appropriate treatment is obtained. But if too much time elapses before ingestion is recognized and appropriate treatment is instituted, the prognosis becomes significantly worse and death from their disease or from euthanasia is more likely. Without treatment, acute kidney failure will be fatal.

Treatment for lily-induced acute renal failure involves aggressive IV fluid diuresis, injectable medications, nutritional support, and very close monitoring. If such treatment is proving unsuccessful, advanced modalities, such as peritoneal dialysis, continuous renal replacement therapy, or renal dialysis are indicated. These treatments are neither inexpensive nor available at all veterinary facilities. In fact, it is because of the intensive nature of the treatment and monitoring necessary to achieve a successful outcome in these cases, and the lack of availability of the advanced treatment modalities at most general practitioner offices, that treatment for acute renal failure resulting from lily toxicity is best obtained at a specialty veterinary emergency hospital.

Hospitalization and treatment costs for this condition will vary on the severity of your cat’s kidney dysfunction and their response to therapy. It can safely be assumed though that if your cat develops clinical acute renal failure (i.e. they are showing the clinical and laboratory abnormalities consistent with failing kidneys) their hospital bill will likely start at $2,000, and costs in the $3,000-4,000 range should not be unexpected. This is not a condition that can be ‘piece-meal’ or ‘conservatively’ treated – delay in instituting the appropriate treatment both worsens your cat’s prognosis and increases your costs too.

As you are hopefully appreciating, prompt recognition and treatment is of the utmost importance. What I’d really like to stress though is that PREVENTINGyour cat’s exposure to lilies is truly a most important goal - and one that can be easily achieved!

What you can do to prevent it – for your cats & others

If you have cats in your household, do not have any of the aforementioned lilies there as well. Regardless of how ‘out of reach’ you think they may be for your cats; it’s just not worth the risk. Cats jump, dead leaves fall, vases spill, and pollen travels on breezes – any of these scenarios can kill your cat and/or deplete your bank account!
Keep your cats indoors. Many people, potentially you included, have lilies in their garden. If your cat is outdoors, unless they are in a secure outdoor enclosure (such as the Kittywalk System), there is no way to ensure that they will not ingest or rub up against those lilies.
When sending flower bouquets to friends or family members with cats, specifically request no lilies. To ensure that they comply with your request, tell them that the recipient is deathly allergic to the flowers. Some florists may not be aware of the dangers of lilies in cats, and they needn’t know that the ‘recipient’ you are referring to is your friend’s cat.
Inform your friends, family members, and local florists of the dangers of lilies in cats. Share this blog post on your Facebook page, Twitter feed, and other social media sites. Put the great graphic above on your social media sites (especially Pintrest) and embed it in your website and blog (embed code is provided under the graphic). Don’t forget, the more people that know about this deadly toxicity, the lower the chances that the next floral arrangement you receive from one of them will contain lilies that could kill your cat.

I hope this blog post and graphic have driven home the dangers of lilies in cats – the importance of increasing awareness of this devastating toxicity truly cannot be overstated. With that in mind, please share far and wide. I also invite you to share any experience you may have with lily toxicity in cats on our website, Facebook page, or Twitter feed. Thanks everybody - have a wonderful (and safe) day!

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Make a Plan to Protect your Pets During Natural Disasters: Emergency Preparedness for Cats and Dogs

Sat, 01 Sep 2012 06:41:00 GMT

As it does each year, September 1^st marks the beginning of National Emergency Preparedness Month. Established in 2004, National Emergency Preparedness Month is designed to encourage us all to learn about and take some simple steps to become better prepared for a range of potential emergencies and/or disasters. After all, it’s often the “little things” that can make a big difference when the s*#t hits the proverbial fan and a little advanced planning and awareness can go an awful long way.

Fortunately these tenets are no less true for the health and safety of our pets during times of disasters and other emergencies. But, since our pets don’t typically formulate their own emergency preparedness plans, it’s up to us to ensure that they’re included in and accounted for in ours.

Such advanced planning won’t only make their life easier in the event of an emergency or disaster; it’ll make yours easier, too. After all, you and the rest of your family can’t afford to spend precious time scrambling to find shelter for your pets at the last minute when faced with the prospect of an evacuation. And you certainly don’t want to leave them behind!

Remember all the images and stories of pets left behind to “fend for themselves” in the wake of Hurricane Katrina? Absolutely devastating and heartbreaking, and medically speaking it was a disaster that some families are still feeling the effects of.

So, to improve your entire family’s odds of coming through a natural disaster or other large-scale emergency with as little distress and loss as possible, don’t forget to make a plan – and be sure to make it one that includes the family pets, too.

To help you get started in your plans, check out the links below…

Of course, an emergency and disaster preparedness plan is a lot like insurance… you hope to never have the need to use it, but you’ll be thankful you’ve got it should the need arise!

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Labor Day Pet Safety: An Overview

Wed, 29 Aug 2012 07:00:00 GMT

While you’re celebrating (read: mourning) the official end of summer this weekend, be sure not to forget about the safety of your pets. Lest your backyard BBQ, fishing trip to the lake, or jump in the car to head out of town might find you mourning more than just the end of the summer. Read on to learn what you need to know and what you should do to spare your pets some pain and yourself a (potentially expensive) trip to your local pet ER this holiday weekend. Have a great Labor Day and, as always… Be Aware. Be Prepared. Be Preventive.

BBQ

Ahh… the quintessential summer BBQ, who doesn’t love it? Be it a steak, a hot dog, an ear of sweet summer corn, or any number of other foods - things just taste better when they’ve come from the grill, don’t they? Just keep this in mind while you’re enjoying your BBQ, because those same foods are likely equally as enticing to your pets, but can cause a whole host of problems for them should they be allowed to partake. (And the same applies to the alcohol that you might be partaking of this holiday weekend, too.)

Some important things to be aware of at a BBQ:

An abrupt change in your pet’s diet, even just one small bite, can lead to inflammation and irritation of their stomach and intestines (‘gastroenteritis’) and/or their pancreas (‘pancreatitis’) - either of which can result in vomiting, diarrhea, and inappetence. This can cost you hundreds to thousands in unexpected (and likely unwanted) vet bills. And some cases of gastroenteritis and pancreatitis can be fatal!
Bones, corncobs, skewers, apple cores, bottle caps, wine corks, and a whole host of other things commonly found at BBQs are frequent culprits in the obstruction of the gastrointestinal tracts of dogs all across the country at this time of the year. (It could be said that cats are too intelligent to ingest such things, but then you consider the dental floss, rubber bands, and other linear objects that cats routinely consume and become obstructed by and it becomes abundantly clear that they just have different tastes, not necessarily greater intelligence.)
Some foods common at BBQs can even be toxic to your pets. Many people are likely to have potato salad at their festivities this weekend, and though potatoes aren’t necessarily toxic to your pets, the onions or garlic that your potato salad recipe might call for can be (both are toxic to a dog or cat’s red blood cells). Similarly, grapes are often common treats at picnics and BBQs, but did you know that even just one grape can be enough to put certain dogs into acute kidney failure? Acute kidney failure means a multiple-day stay for your pet in the hospital, thousands in veterinary bills, and possible death. We still don’t know what component of grapes causes this toxicity (it happens with raisins and currants, too), and it’s not currently possible to predict which dogs will be susceptible to it, but given the potential for, and the severity of, the complications and costs that can arise… why would you risk it? Speaking about pet toxicities that are not common knowledge… some people at the party may be diabetic, or otherwise watching their sugar intake, and may bring along ‘sugar-free’ baked goods. If the sugar substitute in those baked goods is xylitol and your dog gets a hold of it, even if its a small piece, they will be at risk of a sudden and precipitous drop in their blood sugar with resulting ataxia (lack of coordination) and possible seizures or coma. If the ingested amount is high enough though, they can suffer (often) irreversible and fatal liver failure, too. Oh, and while I’m n the topic of neurologic problems and liver failure, alcohol is another common BBQ fixture that is a ‘no-no’ for pets! Some people (mostly college kids and idiots) may think its funny to get their pet drunk (or high) - trust me, its not. And it can be financially and medically costly to find out firsthand, so just take my word on it – we in the veterinary emergency hospitals have seen it enough times to know.

Tips to help prevent common BBQ-associated pet emergencies (make sure kids and guests heed these, too):

Do not feed your pets anything other than their regular and appropriate diet. If you truly want to minimize episodes of vomiting and diarrhea (and begging) in your pets, as well as trips to the vet, no ’people food’ should ever pass through your pet’s lips without your veterinarian’s suggestion to do so.
Keep your pets indoors when the BBQ is at your house, and ideally restrict them to their own quiet room or area of the house where they can relax, away from all the commotion and safely away from any open windows or doors through which they can escape to join the party.
If the party is at someone else’s home, don’t bring your dog. Though you may think you’ll be torturing them by leaving them at home, it’ll be worse to bring them along only to tie them to a post to watch everybody else having fun. And if they do get a hold of something, you’ll be regretting not leaving them safely at home when you’re stuck at the ER with them and having to leave them (and a wad of cash) at the hospital for treatment and monitoring - and possibly surgery!
If for some, unavoidable reason your dog must join you for the BBQ festivities, put a ‘basket-type’ muzzle on them to prevent them from eating those morsels that will invariably drop from the grill or people’s plates. Don’t worry, your dog can still easily breathe and pant with such a muzzle on, and they can drink with them on too (so you still have to be aware and prevent them from getting to the alcohol!).
After the party, keep your dogs safely inside until everything has been cleaned up and you’ve had a chance to ensure that all dropped food scraps and trash has been picked up, and all fence gates closed.
To avoid problems in the event that your dog does inadvertently get out of the house to join the party, use sturdy and covered trash cans for people to dispose of their trash and leftovers. Be prepared with plenty of trashcans, to avoid overflow, and be sure to secure the trash bags safely away from your pet’s reach until trash day.

Water

I’m not talking about their bowl of drinking water here - they should be fairly safe around that. I’m talking about the water that dogs are likely to be around this weekend as many of us spend time by the pool or head to the lake/river/ocean/stream to camp, boat, fish, swim, or whatever else you can think of that involves such bodies of water. Water safety is a huge and (often) neglected aspect of pet safety, but one where the ‘margin of error’ is so dangerously thin.

Drowning is obviously the primary concern for pets around water, and even a dog that is a strong and frequent swimmer can drown in the right (or perhaps I should say ‘wrong’) conditions, so keep in mind the following as you head to the water this summer…

Washed away tree trunks and branches that can act as ‘strainers’ as they get caught up along the shoreline. Not even the best swimmer, be they human or canine, is immune to the often fatal combination of a high river flow and an unfortunately placed ‘strainer’.
Rip currents can be deceptive at the coast. Learn how to recognize them, and follow all posted signs and lifeguard instructions.
Dogs can swim themselves to exhaustion, and those that fall into pools without steps can drown in the struggle to get out. When it comes to pool safety, you really should treat your four-legged kids like your two-legged ones and prevent their unobserved access to the home pool. Install a sturdy and high fence, and use secure and sturdy pool covers. Consider using a pool water safety monitor that can alert you any time someone (or something) falls into the pool - such a gadget can easily safe the life of your pet or child. And, speaking of kids - don’t let your dogs and young children swim together unobserved - either can easily drown the other in a moment of panic.
Boating accidents happen all the time, and if your dog boats with you, they are at equal risk to the rest of the boat’s occupants and should therefore be similarly protected. Use an appropriately fitted personal flotation device (PFD) on your dogs any time they are on or around the water. The same precaution applies to dogs that you bring on the water to surf or stand-up paddleboard too.

Even if your pet survives a ‘near drowning’ event, they are still not out of the proverbial ‘woods’. The water that is now residing in their lungs can continue to cause significant and even fatal problems that may take up to 48-72 hours to fully develop and become obvious. Pets that have suffered ‘near drowning’ emergencies and develop respiratory problems are typically in need of prolonged, in-hospital, intensive care. And such care can cost you well into the thousands of dollars range, as supplemental oxygen therapy and/or heavy sedation to allow for mechanical ventilation are often necessary - and even then, there’s no guarantee of survival. So, regardless of your financial resources and the skill of the veterinary team that would be caring for your pet - keep this emergency in mind, and do all that you can to prevent it.

Drowning isn’t the only pet emergency that is common as people bring their pets to water. Here is a couple more to be aware of…

When hiking, camping, or fishing around lakes and ponds in these warmer months, be sure to keep on the look out for algae overgrowths. The toxins associated with such blooms can cause neurologic problems and death, both in dogs and people too. If these blooms are noticed, do not let your dog drink the water and do not let them swim in it either. If they do jump in, be sure to rinse their coat well with fresh water before they are able to lick the algae and their toxins off their coat. For those of you here in Oregon, you can check for Harmful Algal Bloom Advisories here. And no matter where you are, if you see such a bloom, do your part and alert the appropriate public health department in your city/state.
If you bring your dog fishing during this holiday weekend, or at any time throughout the year, be careful where you leave your tackle box and don’t let your dog sniff around your fishing rod (or eat your catch)… many a dog has been brought to the veterinary ER with a fishing hook stuck in their nose, lip, tongue, and even esophagus. It’s a sure-fire way to ruin an otherwise peaceful fishing trip, and trying to remove the offending hook yourself can actually make the problem worse. I’m sorry to say, you’ll have to be visiting the vet to get help with this one.

Heat

In parts of the country where the temperatures are expected to be above 65 degrees, potentially fatal Heat Stroke becomes a concern that all pet owners need to be aware of. Those with pets with certain ‘factors’ that increase their risk for Heat Stroke should be particularly cautious. For more information on this condition and the things you need to know and do to prevent it, click here for my previous post on this very important subject.

Travel

Many of us will be taking to the roads this Labor Day, and quite a few will be taking their pets along for the ride. Whether they’re riding in a car, SUV, wagon, pick-up, RV, or other, to keep them and everybody else on the road safe, they should do so safely and properly restrained. Unrestrained dogs are estimated to cause upwards of 30,000 accidents each year! These accidents not only injure and kill pets, but the human occupants of that vehicle and those riding in others as well. Proper pet restraint is easy to do, and it’s to the benefit of everyone in your vehicle and on the roads. For more information on the importance of and how to achieve proper pet vehicle restraint, click here for my previous post on this important subject.

To read my previous review of the Bergan Pet Travel Safety Harness click here.

Here’s to a wonderful and safe Labor Day for you, your family, and your pets! Let us know in the comments section how you plan to/did spend your Labor Day - and feel free to post photos of your pets enjoying the day too!

Lost cats and dogs: Your pets versus 4th of July fireworks

Tue, 26 Jun 2012 07:00:00 GMT

Do you know what day is historically the busiest day of the year in animal shelters all across the country?

It’s the FIFTH of July.

Do you know why? Yup, you guessed it… fireworks!

In reality though, that’s only partially right. The real reasons are a bit more involved than just “fireworks”. And to truly do something about the staggering number of pets that wind up in shelters each year on July 5^th, it’s important that you be aware of these reasons. Of course, it’s even more important that you’re aware of and take the easy steps to prevent your cats and dogs from becoming lost and also increase your chances of being reunited with them should your preventive efforts fail.

Now because this is such a big and important problem, and because the consequences of not knowing – countless pets being hit by cars or left to linger or be euthanized in shelters – can be severe, I’m not going to “sugar coat” this. The annual flood of pets into shelters is a direct result of three things:

The stress and anxiety that fireworks create in many cats and dogs.
The lack of awareness and/or understanding of #1 (above) on the part of the general public – pet owners and non-pet people, alike.
The failure of thousands of pet owners to take the easy steps necessary to minimize their pet’s stress and anxiety, prevent their pet’s escape from their home, yard, or leash, and to maximize the chances that they will be reunited with a lost pet.

According to the ASPCA, the National Council on Pet Population Study and Policy estimates that less than 2% of cats and only 15-20% of dogs entering shelters are ever reunited with their families! These are sad and tragic statistics, wouldn’t you agree?

Seeing as how such a paltry number of pets winding up in shelters ever make it back to their home, the importance of taking steps to prevent them from needing to be there in the first place truly cannot be overstated. And for those that do wind up in shelters, nor can the importance of taking steps to increase the chances that they will be reunited with you. These easy and important steps and tips are outlined below. Have a read and don’t forget to share with your friends, family, neighbors, and coworkers – I’m sure they’d like to keep their pets safe, too.

Recognize and decrease your pet’s stress and anxiety

Appreciate that cats and dogs may show anxiety or stress in a variety of different ways. Pay attention and learn to recognize these signs for what they may indicate. Signs may include any or all of the following:

Panting
Drooling
Pacing
Hiding
Decreased appetite
Abnormal urinations or defecations
Dilated pupils
Excessive grooming

Talk with your veterinarian well in advance of July 4^th if sedatives are going to be necessary to help your pet through the fireworks. Be sure to do a “test dose” prior to the 4^th to determine the dose and frequency that will be the safest and most effective for your pet.

Consider using pheromones, such as Feliway (for cats) or Dog Appeasing Pheromone (DAP, for dogs), or the Thundershirt for additional help with anxiety.

If stress and anxiety are problems for your cats or dogs throughout the year, talk to your veterinarian about working with a veterinary behaviorist. You can find a link to locate veterinary behavior specialists on the Resources page of The Preventive Vet website (www.ThePreventiveVet.com/resources.html).

Keep your pets indoors and secure your home & yard

Keep all cats and dogs indoors on and around the 4^th of July. You never know when the fireworks displays will begin or end – they often start a few days before and extend several days beyond.

Keep all windows and doors securely closed. Block off all pet doors and ensure that all yard gates are intact and securely closed.

Provide your pets with a safe, quiet, and secure area within the house. This might be their crate or a small room. Be sure they have fresh water and some of their favorite toys with them. For cats, be sure to provide them with clean litter boxes in this area, too.

Never have your pets around you when setting off fireworks in your yard and never take your dog with you to your neighborhood or town fireworks display. This won’t only keep them from getting scared and “bolting”, but it will also spare them the burn injuries that dogs commonly get from chasing and trying to catch or eat fireworks!

Effectively restrain and maintain control over dogs out for a walk on and around the 4^th

You never know when an impromptu fireworks display is going to happen. It’s safest to take a “Murphy’s Law approach” and just assume that one will every time you take your dogs out on or around the 4^th of July.

Be sure that your dog is leashed up every time they leave your house. Be sure to attach their leash before you open the door!

Be sure that their leash is securely attached to a well-fitted and sturdy collar or harness. Many dogs have, in a fit of anxiety, wriggled their way out of collars and harnesses that were too loosely fitted. Don’t let your pup be one of them.

Never just let your dog out in the yard to “do their business” on or around the 4^th of July – regardless of whether your yard is fenced or not. Dogs have been known to jump several feet over fences or burrow under them to escape their yard, and you never know when someone has made it easy for your dog by leaving a fence gate open. Always leash them up at this time of year.

Ensure that all pets – even indoor cats – have legible and up-to-date identification

Microchips are important, for all pets (even indoor-only cats). Speak with your veterinarian about having it done – the only time it’s too late is once they’ve already disappeared. Make sure to register the chip and keep your contact information up-to-date.

The QR code ID tag by PetHub (www.PetHub.com) is an excellent means of identifying your pets. The tag comes with a personalized webpage for your pets and the QR code enables anybody with a smartphone to scan your lost pet. This technology greatly increases the chances of your lost pet being reunited with you.

The Tagg GPS locator for dogs (www.PetTracker.com) can be an excellent means of helping you actively locate an escaped dog and may be well worth the investment, especially if your dog is particularly “Houdini-esque”.

Conduct an effective and thorough search for any pets that go missing

Always have recent photos of your pets handy. After all, a picture speaks a thousand words and can likely do a better job of identifying your pet than any verbal description you can muster up.

Contact your microchip company and tag company. If you have the PetHub tag, be sure to ensure that the information on your pet’s personal webpage is up-to-date.

Enroll you neighbors to keep an eye open for your missing pet in the neighborhood.

Contact all veterinary clinics and hospitals in your area; don’t forget about your local pet emergency hospitals.

Contact your local animal shelters and monitor their websites (many shelters will update their website with found pets). Be sure to call and check their website every day – but be patient with them, they are sure to be overloaded with enquiries and pets to care for.

Plaster your neighborhood and town with Lost Pet posters – be sure to include a photo and any of your pet’s distinguishing features. And be sure to include a way for people to get in touch with you!

Post a “lost pet notice” on Craigslist, check back daily.

Take the simple steps highlighted above and not only will you minimize the likelihood that your pet will be amongst the thousands of pets entering a shelter this year on July 5^th, but you’ll also greatly increase the chances that you’ll be reunited with them if they do.

Have a safe and wonderful 4^th (and a stress-free 5^th)!

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

What do you do to calm your pets and decrease their anxiety when the sky is full of fireworks (or thunder)? Share your tricks and tips in the comments section below.

An Overview of Summer Pet Safety

Wed, 20 Jun 2012 22:02:00 GMT

Summer is officially here! And who amongst you isn’t ready for the sunshine, BBQs, fireworks, trips to the river/lake/beach, and all the other joys that this time of year brings? Believe it or not, there is one group that likely isn’t ready… your pets!

With a few simple steps you can help prepare them and keep them safe this summer. This post will serve as an overview of the summer hazards that commonly sicken, injure, and kill cats and dogs this time of year. Awareness is such an important part of prevention. So please, give this post a read and be sure to share it with your pet-loving friends, family, neighbors, and co-workers. Here’s to a safe and wonderful summer for all – human and pet, alike!

Heat

Though that beautiful glowing orb in the sky improves our collective mood and helps to sustain life on our planet, it can lead to a few significant problems for our beloved pets, too.

Heat Stroke

This is a debilitating, devastating, distressing, and frequently fatal emergency condition that is often 100% preventable. Our pets just aren’t as adept at dealing with heat as we are, and cats and dogs everywhere will be put at unintentional risk until everyone is aware of this fact. For more information on this horrible and easily preventable condition – including what it is, which pets it most often affects, how to recognize and treat it, and (most importantly) how to prevent it – click here.

Paw Pad Burns

Ever walked barefoot on hot asphalt or sand? Hurts, doesn’t it? Though our cats and dogs have thicker paw pads that we have soles, they are still susceptible to pain and damage from walking on hot surfaces. Pets have suffered painful burns from spending too much time on hot asphalt, sand, or other surfaces. Keep this in mind when deciding whether or not to take your dog with you for a day at the local street fair or for a trip to the beach. If they’re likely to be spending a lot of time on such surfaces, consider outfitting them with a pair of dog booties or leaving them at home.

Sunburn and Skin Cancer

Just like us, our cats and dogs are susceptible to developing sunburn and skin cancer. Their most vulnerable areas are typically the top of their muzzle (nose), flaps of their ears, and the underside of their belly (for those who like to sunbathe on their back). Pets with lighter colored coats and those with minimal fur covering are at even higher risk. To minimize their risk consider keeping them indoors during the hottest parts of the day and using pet-safe sunscreen on those who must be out. *This is one case where it is relatively safe to assume that that which is safe for your baby is also safe for your pets – baby sunscreens are indeed safe to be used (in moderation) on your pets.

Water

More of us are likely to be spending time by the water this summer and that means that our dogs are likely to be doing so, too. Be aware though that even those dogs that are considered “strong swimmers” can have problems around the water.

Drowning and Near-Drowning

Depending on the composition of the water inhaled – salt vs. fresh vs. chlorinated – even a relatively small amount of aspirated water can cause significant problems for your pooch. Be aware of this both around your back yard pool and when at the beach/lake/river. Some important tips to follow include:

Watch your dogs closely when they’re swimming – be sure to take them out before they become exhausted
Never let dogs swim unobserved with a young child – either can quickly and unintentionally cause the drowning of the other
Use lifejackets/PFDs on all dogs, including strong swimmers and those spending time on a boat, kayak, or stand-up paddleboard
Be aware of and avoid rip currents at the beach and strong currents and strainers when at the river
Outfit your backyard pool with a secure fence, water surface alarm, and a dog ramp

Blue-Green Algae and other Harmful Algal Blooms

Common on lakes and ponds, sun-loving algae tend to proliferate in the hot summer months. Certain types of algae produce toxins that can easily sicken, or even kill your dog. Check your state’s department of health website for algal bloom advisories and learn to recognize what these overgrowths look like.

Here's a great picture of a blue-green algal bloom by Flickr user Neil Saunders.

Toxins

Slug and Snail Baits

If you live in a damp or low-lying part of the country, your pets are at risk of toxicity from slug and snail baits – even if you don’t use them in your own garden. Most of these baits contain the active ingredient Metaldehyde, a highly toxic compound that leads to neuromuscular dysfunction in the pet unfortunate enough to eat it. And eat it they do! Many pets are affected by metaldehyde toxicity each year, likely a result of the fact that many of these products are formulated with molasses to bind them and make them more attractive to the snails and slugs they are designed to kill. Keep your pets inside, on leashes, and out of the garden. Use non-chemical means of preventing or eradicating snails and slugs when possible, and use the safer iron-phosphate containing baits when chemical means are necessary.

Flea Treatments and Preventatives

Fleas are nasty little buggers and you should do all that you can to keep them off your pets and out of your home. That said, every summer, pet emergency rooms across the country fill up with cats suffering from pyrethrin toxicity when inappropriate products or excessive doses are applied. For safe and effective flea control talk to your veterinarian and see our in-depth flea blog post.

Antifreeze

Many people don’t think of antifreeze as a common summer pet hazard, but given that it’s in our cars year around (helping to keep the engine cool in the summer), it certainly is. The concerning ingredient in antifreeze/coolant is a compound called ethylene glycol. Even a small amount of ethylene glycol can destroy your pet’s kidneys, leading to kidney failure and death if not detected and treated in a timely fashion. Be sure to clean up all spills promptly and store these containers safely. Even with those steps though, the safest things you can do for your pets is to keep them indoors, keep them on a leash, and use a safer propylene glycol based alternative instead.

Injuries

Hit-By-Car

With more cats and dogs running around outside during the summer months it’s no wonder that cases of hit-by-car trauma go up this time of year. Be sure to check your yard fences and keep your dogs on leash and cats indoors.

High-Rise Syndrome

Don’t let your cat (or dog) be one of the unfortunate pets to fall from a balcony or open window this summer. Learn about this common summertime emergency and take the simple steps to prevent it. Recognize that, contrary to its name, you and your pets need not live in a skyscraper for them to be in danger. Read more about High-Rise Syndrome in pets here.

Dog Fights & Cat Bites

Regardless of whether they are inflicted at the local dog park or out around your neighborhood, animal bite wounds aren’t only painful; they transmit disease and often require veterinary treatment, too. Don’t be fooled by bites that look like “nothing”, either. Many a dog and cat has wound up in the ICU and/or requiring surgery from bite wounds that seemed innocuous… it’s the infections that brew and smolder beneath the surface of the skin and in the chest or abdominal cavity that can cause the most unexpected damage. Always have bite wounds evaluated by your veterinarian.

Fireworks

Not only do fireworks cause direct injuries to unfortunate pets, each year they also cause countless pets to run away and get hit by cars. Pets should be nowhere near fireworks displays and should always be kept securely indoors when such festivities are expected. Talk to your veterinarian early if sedation is likely to be needed and look into the Thundershirt if your pets are particularly stressed by such loud noises. Lastly, don’t forget about the importance of microchips in reuniting families with their lost pets – have it done and make sure to keep your contact information up-to-date.

Yard Equipment

Given the potential for direct injury (from lawnmower blades and edging strings) and for indirect injury (from kicked-up sticks, rocks, and other debris), it’s best to leave your pets safely indoors when doing work around the yard.

BBQ Food and Scraps

If your pet gets into (or is given) scraps from the grill he’s likely to wind up with digestive upset or obstruction that may ruin your carpet and land him in the hospital. Meat scraps, corncobs, bones, and skewers are all common causes of digestive problems in pets this time of year. Best to leave your pooch inside during the festivities and make sure all is well cleaned up before letting him back out in the yard.

With a little bit of awareness and some easy preventive steps, you and your pet can enjoy a fun and safe summer together. Have a great summer everybody and stay safe!

What do you do with your pets in the summer? Do you take them on road trips? Do they get to lounge with you by the pool? Share your stories and photos with us - let's see how everybody is enjoying their summer.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Don't forget to sign up for our free weekly pet safety email. There's always so much to share, come join in to stay up-to-date on what else you can be doing to keep your pets safe. Click here to go to the sign up form.

The Costs of Pet Emergencies: Credit Cards, Pet Insurance, and Other Options

Mon, 11 Jun 2012 07:00:00 GMT

Regardless of how aware and proactive you may be with your pet's health and safety, and as much as I will prepare you, there will, sadly, always be the possibility of an illness or emergency 'sneaking through'. Do you have a financial plan in place should such an event occur?

Part of the preparedness aspect of my 'Be aware, be prepared… be Preventive' mantra is financial preparedness. For example, what would you do if suddenly faced with the following costs for your pet's necessary emergency care?

Cat bite abscess (cat): $1,250
Hit-by-car (dog): $5,600
Urethral obstruction (cat): $2,700
Toxin ingestion (mushrooms, dog): $6,500
Heatstroke (dog): $4,200
Gastrointestinal foreign body surgery (diaper, dog): $3,275
Vomiting and diarrhea (pancreatitis, dog): $3,000
Diabetic Ketoacidosis (cat): $4,600
Back surgery for ruptured disc (dog): $5,600

These are just a few examples of actual emergency costs, and though many emergencies have a lower price tag, plenty have higher, as well.

As you're hopefully beginning to realize and coming to appreciate, it truly is best to give some thought and consideration to such situations before they happen to one of your pets – as doing so will not only allow you to be more medically and emotionally prepared, but better financially prepared as well. In this post I'll outline the options available for you when faced with the unexpected costs of a pet emergency.

What's the risk of not planning?

Sadly, we veterinarians see the results of such a lack of planning all too often. Pet parents are faced with the wrenching decision to elect euthanasia or less-than-ideal care in fixable cases where money is the primary determinant. Either that or the owner takes on credit card or loan debt that they have no real means of paying off.

Now I'm not going to 'sugar coat' this... good veterinary medical care isn't cheap, and this is even more true when that care is needed on an emergency basis. The reasons for this are many and varied, and beyond the scope of what I am trying to do with this post (if you'd like to know why though, just shoot me an email or leave a question in the comments section at the end). Regardless of the reasons though, these costs are the reality that you may find yourself faced with at 3am on a Wednesday morning, noon on Christmas day, or at any other time when you're least expecting them, and potentially least able to pay them as well.

With a little bit of forethought and planning though, when such situations present themselves, you may be better able to focus on what's best for your pet, rather than worrying too much about what's best for your pocketbook.

Options for paying for your pet's emergency medical care, what you need to know...

We've got it covered...

Of course the ideal scenario in emergency situations is having the disposable income to cover unexpected expenses without worry. If this is you, be thankful, and feel free to stop reading here (though I do hope you'll continue). Better still, if this describes you, consider donating some money to one of the charitable funds listed below (or one at your local pet emergency hospital) to help others afford the best care for their pets.

That's what friends (and family) are for...

In times of emergency, many people turn to friends and family for the money to cover their pet's necessary medical expenses. While this can be a viable solution in some situations, it can also lead to a straining of those relationships when it comes time to pay them back. I'd caution you to use such resources carefully. With a little bit of financial preparation you can keep this option in reserve for dire need.

I never leave home without it...

This is what most people reach for in times of pet emergencies -- credit cards. In such cases they can truly be life-savers, providing an automatic 'short-term' loan to alleviate the sudden and immediate need for funds. But do keep in mind that they often come with a hefty interest rate once your grace period expires. And if you're already near your limit, you face the prospect of your cards being declined just when you and your pets need them most.

A penny saved...

A dedicated pet care savings account is a great idea, but one that requires an awful lot of discipline and a high contribution rate to reach a balance that would help significantly in a true emergency situation. If you have the financial means and discipline to set up such an account, by all means I encourage you to do so. However, bear in mind the costs highlighted above and think about where your funds will come from if an emergency happens in the first few months (or even year) of having established your account... such an event would likely quickly overwhelm and exceed what you've set aside to that point. These accounts can be wonderful to pay for the 'routine' or 'elective' costs of pet care... wellness visits, dental cleanings, etc. They often just don't cut it for emergency situations though.

We're in good hands...

Pet insurance! This is a hot topic now and an idea that is gaining more traction in the US. (Where I did my vet school, in England, pet insurance is the norm rather than the exception.) Though a full-on, comprehensive policy likely won't pay off in the end for most pets, I truly believe that all pet owners should give some degree of serious consideration to pet insurance regardless. It is truly the best form of financial risk management in the event that an unexpected accident, illness, toxicity, or other emergency befalls one of your pets.

As with everything though, you need to read fine print, comparison shop, and get recommendations (speak with pet-owning friends & family, and speak with your veterinarian). My typical recommendation is for every pet owner to get a good policy that covers accidents, illnesses, and other emergencies only. If you wish to have a policy that covers wellness care and elective procedures, that's more of a case-by-case decision and you really need to read well and crunch some numbers.

For accident/emergency and illness coverage I typically recommend Trupanion pet insurance. They have no per incident, annual, or lifetime limits on the benefits they pay out, they reimburse 90% of your actual vet bill after the exam fee and deductible, cover genetic and hereditary conditions, and have one simple and easy to understand policy. They have a great reputation as an up-and-coming company and have great customer service. Check them out to see if it’s the right fit for you and your pets.

If you prefer a more comprehensive policy to help with the expenses of routine and wellness care however, check out Embrace pet insurance. They offer some good comprehensive policies, with lots of potential add-ons. The more comprehensive policies are typically a bit more difficult to decipher and figure out what you truly need, but if you're having problems they also have excellent customer service.

To read other people’s reviews of their pet’s insurance company, check out a review site like Pet Insurance Review.

And be sure to check out Dr. Doug Kenney's great pet insurance blog for pet owners. In it he shares his great and impartial insights on the pet insurance marketplace. He also provides a great Pet Insurance Toolkit available for free download that will help you evaluate your options of pet insurance companies and available plans. Definitely worth a look and a download!

Give unto others...

Charity funds can sometimes help with a portion of your pet's emergency medical care. Bear in mind though, these aren't really financial resources that you can count on in advance. Such funds are often limited (especially in this current economy) and therefore apportioned out on not only an as-needed basis, but also often have many owner 'means testing' requirements as well. Even when you do qualify for a grant and they have the money to dole out, don't count on it covering your entire bill... typical grants are often only in the hundreds of dollars range. Here's a couple national ones to check out, but don't forget to talk about your need with the staff at the hospital too as they may know of some others or have an in-house administrated fund. It never hurts to ask if you need it and it will help you afford the necessary care for your pet.

AAHA Helping Pets Fund

RedRover Relief Grants

The revolving door...

In the pinch of an emergency situation, a third-party health care line of credit can help to alleviate the initial financial burden. However, it is very important to realize that though such credit lines may come with a significant interest-free repayment period, one missed payment, or even one late payment can trigger an interest rate hike that can be even higher that that of your regular credit cards. Read the fine print carefully and manage this debt wisely and such programs can be true lifesavers for your pets. The two most popular are listed below.

CareCredit

Wells Fargo Health Advantage

Again though, and to bring this 'full circle', even if financial resources aren't a limiting factor in the medical care that you are willing and able to authorize for your pets in an emergency situation, it doesn't diminish the importance of awareness, preparedness, and prevention. Sometimes, no matter your financial means, no matter the level of care available, no matter how much you might be willing to do for your beloved pet, sometimes they just can't be saved...

Jasper was a 4 year old Labrador, and by all accounts a strong swimmer. Sadly he and his owners didn't fully appreciate the flow of the river one day. Jasper got caught in the current chasing after a ball and took plenty of water into his lungs trying to get out. He was able to get back to shore and his owners quickly recognized the emergency nature of his condition when they saw how weak their once strong dog was. Unfortunately, and in spite of their quick action, an ER staffed with a very well qualified and experienced medical team, and the family's (nearly) unlimited financial resources, the damage to Jasper's lungs was just too great. He succumbed to the injuries of his near-drowning experience after 72 hours on the ventilator. His family was heartbroken.

I encourage you... have a financial plan in place, but continue to strive for prevention in the hopes that you'll never need to use it.

Have you had any experience with a pet emergency? How did you deal with the costs? Did you have pet insurance? Do you now have pet insurance? Share your stories and your feedback in the comments section or on the Facebook page.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

"High Rise Syndrome": When it Starts Raining Cats and Dogs

Mon, 11 Jun 2012 07:00:00 GMT

When the weather gets nice and people open their apartment windows, cats and dogs can start (quite literally) falling from the sky! This emergency occurs so frequently that it's got it's own name... it's called 'High-Rise Syndrome'. So if you live with pets (or young children) above the second floor of any building – it need not be a true high rise – pay very careful attention to this one.

When cats fall from heights, they are likely to suffer severe injuries that extend well beyond the typically thought about broken bones. This is particularly true when they fall from heights between 2 and 7 stories. In such cases, it’s common for them to sustain bruising to their heart and lungs, fracture of their lower jaw and 'roof' of their mouth, and swelling of their brain. Many of these cats will also suffer a rupture of their urinary bladder, internal bleeding, and fracture of their ribs. And this is all in addition to the potential for broken legs!

Amazingly, many of these cats can still survive and do quite well. However, fixing them is neither cheap nor fast. Costs for treating severe ‘high-rise syndrome’ cases are often in the range of $2,000-5,000+, and these pets are typically going to need to be in the hospital for several days. These poor guys require true intensive care, often requiring supplemental oxygen therapy and temporary feeding tubes.

Interestingly, cats that fall from heights over 7 stories typically sustain fewer and less severe injuries. But that's not to say that you should let them do it! Even these cats can suffer painful or fatal injuries.

Cats often wind up in this predicament after having been startled off their perch - the sill of an open window - by a loud noise (vacuum, blender, doorbell, screaming kids, and others) or from losing their balance while jumping onto the ledge or while hunting passing bugs, flies, or birds from an open window.

Given the potential severity of their injuries, the risk of death, the costs associated with treatment, and the fact that it can also happen to your children, I'd suggest being aware of the potential for this emergency to occur, and doing all that you can to prevent it.

Preventive steps include:

Installing well-fitted, and secure window screens on any windows that you plan to leave open.
If possible, open the top portion of your windows, rather than the bottom. Or, if you have 'hotel-style' windows, open them to the side, rather than out.
Close all windows before leaving the apartment, and close your windows before starting loud appliances.
Don't let your pets out on your balcony unobserved. And even then, do not let them jump onto the railings. Move your patio furniture away from the railings to help keep your pets (and kids) from getting to a level where they are more likely to fall over.
Close your windows before playing ball with your dog in the house.

If your pet does fall out the window, bring them immediately for veterinary evaluation and treatment. As outlined above, the list of potential injuries they may have suffered is much longer than just broken bones, and many of them aren't likely to be obvious to you. There is no 'at home' treatment, and many of these pets are in extreme pain - get them to the vet immediately.

Be aware. Be prepared. Be Preventive! ™

Do you have any experiences with "High Rise Syndrome"? Please consider sharing your experiences to help other pet owners keep their beloved cats and dogs safe. You can post your experiences here in the comments section and/or on our forums (click here for the "High Rise Syndrome" forum page).

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